Some Final Thoughts....

Friday, September 24

A short time has passed since the completion of our ‘adventure’. I have had a difficult time with the idea that ‘this’ blog like our ‘adventure’ has to come to an end. I will miss my ‘daily’ writing. In some ways it became a ‘connection to reality’ and in many ways ‘therapeutic’. On the days when the weather did not cooperate, the hills seemed never ending, the muscles ached, the butt hurt, and the mind played games with my confidence, the ‘blog’ was a constant. It was ‘rare’ that I did not want to ‘share’ a part of our day. As I have said before, there is a lot of ‘idle mind time’ while riding a bicycle hour after hour and day after day. Many of those hours were spent coming up with ideas that would be shared. Bottom line the ‘blog’, just like the whole ‘adventure’, has been both ‘fun’ and ‘rewarding’.

I would like to thank all of the people who have taken the time to follow my ‘ramblings’ on the blog as we crossed this vast country. It has been fun to share our experiences with you.

I would be very remiss if I did not thank all of our friends and family who shared in and made this adventure possible. You know who you are!!! Without your help and support Sue and I would never have been able to make our ‘dream’ a ‘reality’.

We have enjoyed a ‘nomadic life’ for over 4 months. Our re-integration into ‘normal’ society, we suspect, will be a difficult one. We have been asked numerous times since our return what our next adventure will be. We do not know for sure. Rest assured we are not finished with our bicycles!

It is only fitting that the blog be ended with our adventures’ motto. What we did not know when we came up with it was how ‘prophetic’ it would become.

”LIFE ISN’T ABOUT WAITING FOR THE STORM TO PASS...IT’S ABOUT LEARNING TO DANCE IN THE RAIN”

Final Statistics....

Thursday, September 23

After 6 days in St. John’s we returned to Ontario. The Canary Bicycle shop in St. John’s boxed our bikes and sent them by courier back home. Our camping gear was sent through the mail and the rest of our gear flew home with us. We are in some ways relieved but in many ways are sad that this adventure has come to an end.

One of the things that I would like to do is a ‘statistic page’ of our adventure. So here goes...

# of Days Riding = 111

# of Days Riding in the Rain = 39 + 1 snow day

Average Daily Distance for whole adventure = 76.17 km

Province By Province Statistics...

British Columbia = 1193.20 km in 17 days for a 70.18 km per day average

Alberta = 444.78 km in 6 days for a 74.13 km per day average

Saskatchewan = 750.89 km in 8 days for a 93.86 km per day average

Manitoba = 536.37 km in 7 days for a 76.62 km per day average

Ontario = 2596.16 km in 33 days for a 78.67 km per day average

Quebec = 994.26 km in 11 days for a 90.38 km per day average

New Brunswick = 443.69 km in 6 days for a 73.94 per day average

Prince Edward Island = 171.82 km in 4 days for a 42.95 km per day average

Nova Scotia = 335.52 km in 5 days for a 67.10 km per day average

Newfoundland = 988.31 km in 14 days for a 70.59 km per day average

Longest Day = 143.83 km taking 8 hours 27 minutes on the bikes (Atikokan to Shabaqua)

Days cycling over 100 km = 9

Maximum Speed = 71.44 km

Equipment Analysis...We each had only one flat but both were fixed in campgrounds. Both of our front tires made it all the way across Canada. Sue had 2 back tires and I had 4 back tires. I had to replace my back wheel in Sault Ste. Marie and upon arriving in St. John’s realized that ‘that’ rim was also ‘toast’. Another time a BOB trailer might have to be considered! Our ‘Rocky Mountain’ bicycles held up really well. They were truly ‘workhorses’! Our MEC bags and clothing also stood the test of everything that the weatherman could throw at us and trust me that was a lot! Overall our equipment with the exception of my 2 back ‘rims’ served us well.

Stay tuned for some ‘FINAL’ musings!!!

Further 'Musings' From St. John's....

Tuesday, September 14

One of the things that I have commented upon many times throughout our adventure was the slower pace that we set across Canada. Most Cross Canada cyclists accomplish their trips in anywhere from 2 months to 3 months. As everyone who has followed our journey knows, we took a 'lot' longer. These cyclists who we met who were riding 200 km or more a day made it (we assume) much faster. But did they enjoy it? Did they see any sights? What will be their memories? Were they able to be 'travellers'? For us, it was never about the speed. Sue throughout the ride, often said "I wish I was a 'real' cyclist". To her, the cyclists on road bikes passing us and leaving us in their 'dust' were the 'real' cyclists. But you know after we had passed 8000 km on our adventure I finally challenged her on this. Somewhere in our adventure Sue became a 'real' cyclist. Anyone who can wake up every morning (and that is tough for Sue), get on their bike despite the weather, how grumpy you are, or how much your muscles ache, has to consider themselves a 'real' cyclist. And 'Kudos' to Sue, as was pointed out to us, very few women actually accomplish this 'feat'. Even more amazing is Sue did it while putting up with 'me' whose patience, at the best of times, is 'wanting'!!!

For periods of time we were joined by 'younger crew members'. As they would power up the hills I had to keep reminding myself that this was not about seeing how fast we could get to the top but about seeing if we could still be standing the next day or 2 months from then. I would like to finish up today's entry with a 'fable' that most people will recognize.

The Hare and The Tortoise...An Aesop's Fable

The Hare was once boasting of his speed before the other animals. "I have never yet been beaten" said he, "when I put forth my full speed. I challenge any one here to race with me.". The Tortoise said quietly, "I accept your challenge". "That is a good joke", said the Hare. "I could dance round you all the way". "Keep your boasting till you've beaten me", answered the Tortoise. "Shall we race"? So a course was fixed and a start was made. The Hare darted almost out of sight at once, But soon stopped and, to show his contempt for the Tortoise, lay down to have a nap. The Tortoise plodded on and plodded on, and when the Hare awoke from his nap, he saw the Tortoise just near the winning post and could not run up in time to save the race. Then said the Tortoise: "Plodding Wins The Race"!

Some Thoughts...And Reflections...From St. John's....

A Bicycle Trip Across Canada...Why?

It had been on my 'Bucket List' for a few years and I managed to talk Sue into it. To begin I suspect this trip was probably about the physical challenge. Are we capable of riding bicycles across Canada? Most people we talked to were fascinated with our journey and were even more surprised when we would say that we were not raising money for a 'charitable cause'. My 'pat answer' when asked "why then?" was "to see Canada in a truly unique way, to see 'small town' Canada and meet its people". As time went on the answer felt like it was true. But as the days turned into weeks and province after province was crossed our perspective of the adventure began to change. While riding one's bicycle for hours on end you have a lot of time to spend 'within yourself'. Or in plain English you have lots of time to reflect upon what it is you are doing and upon life.

So what did I learn about myself?

I certainly learned that with a lot of hard work and perseverance anything is possible. Riding day after day is more mental than physical. The challenge to get on one's bike knowing that your legs are 'stiff and weary', your 'butt' hurts, you are facing tough climbing, and in our case, abnormal amounts of rainfall, is purely 'mind over matter'. Of course our conditioning improved but that mental game was always present. The struggle to make sure we had water and food for not just today but maybe for a couple or three days was mentally draining. So was figuring out where we might stay for the night. Sue did 'yeomen’s duty' looking after a lot of these details as I 'merrily' got my blogging done. These 'not so small details' all would take place after riding 80 to 100 km. No small feat.

So what did we learn about Canada?

As the Arrogant Worms so elegantly put it "Canada is really BIG"! We have vast areas of 'nothingness'! But it is far more than that. We have scenery that probably 'cannot' be matched by any other country in the world! We have been asked what was the most beautiful place on our trip? Every part of Canada has it's beauty. But for me it would be British Columbia and Newfoundland. Both of these provinces have impressive mountains, rivers and landscapes that are formidable, especially on a bicycle. But the shear beauty of British Columbia stands out. Riding through the valleys and looking up at the snow capped mountains is 'breathtaking'. The 'raging rivers' and the mountain passes were extra special. British Columbia also provided that 'moment' that was most significant to me. When we rode out of B.C. and were greeted by the Welcome to Wild Rose Country, it was exhilarating. It was at that very moment that I finally believed that we might actually be able to do this. For me it was "we just made it across the mountains...holy shit"!!! And then there are Canada's 'people'. We were treated to some of the most amazing generosity and trust. It began with our stay with friends in Maple Ridge and continued throughout our adventure. From the 'elderly lady' inviting us to her campfire in Souris, Manitoba, to the generosity of friends in Ontario, to the unbelievable experience of a 'total stranger' opening her house to us, to all the 'honks' of automobiles in Newfoundland, we were 'blown away' by the 'generosity and friendliness' of people. We met an awful lot of 'nice' people.

On our days off I always referred to us as 'tourists'. In fact it was not until we got to Newfoundland that I realized that this was not true. In fact, all across this 'vast' country we had been 'travellers'. You might be saying, "well what is the difference"? The Newfoundland 2010 Traveller's Guide best describes it. "The 'traveller', sees what he sees. The "tourists' know what they are looking for long before they know what is truly here. A 'traveller', on the other hand, seeks the truth of a place, the essence that can only be appreciated by seeing the puzzle as a whole. Wildlife? Check. History? Of course. Amazing vistas? In spades. And culture? We speak more dialects of English than the English do". Those few words probably best describe what we truly were as we crossed this country. We did not have pre-conceived ideas of what to expect or what we wanted to see. We saw whatever was there to see, not what we wanted to. The physical and mental challenge never subsided but the trip truly did 'morph' for us.

How has this trip changed us?

That will, I suspect, be a work in progress. Of this I am sure. The adventure will continue to live on inside us long after we have finished. I suspect places and people will drift magically in and out of our consciousness when we least expect them. Moments of boredom will probably cause us to relive our adventures and moments of joy and new found friendships, As one of our 'new found' friends said to us upon the completion of our journey..."What you did was amazing. You'll have your whole life to relish this achievement. When you're having a 'shitty' day at work, stop, smile, and think to yourself. This isn't important. I bicycled across Canada."

Kevin

Further Thoughts From Sue....

Part way through the trip a young woman asked what I liked most about the adventure so far. I replied, with no hesitation, "the solitude of being on my bike". Over the last part of the trip, I have had time to reflect on this answer, as since my teenage years, I have liked 'to be on my bike'.

The solitude of being on my bike...

the monotony of watching my front tire rotating forward to pavement...the push and pull of leg muscles 'in tune' with the terrain...the sound of traffic in the periphery of my consciousness...the metronome in my mind counting the pedal strokes...the casual search for black pick-up trucks in my rearview mirror...the subconscious listening to bike parts ensuring all is well...the bike in front of me; a constant companion...the landscape around; often beautiful, always interesting...the endless wandering of my mind from the mundane to the philosophical to a wondrous nothingness...many questions, few answers...health in solitude

Sue

Life Isn't About Waiting For The Storm To Pass...It's About Learning To Dance In The Rain!!!!

Friday, September 10

Holyrood to St. John's, Newfoundland

WE DID IT! Not sure what else to say! After 4 months and 3 days we have arrived at our final biking destination!

Today was one of those days where 'sane' people would never have left the comfort of the Beach View Motel in Holyrood. Today was an experience to say the least! 50 km winds drove the heavy rains at us in 'sheets'! We are 'drowned rats'...again. But as I had said to Sue this morning "come hell or high water" we are getting to St. John's. And we did!

We are comfortably camped out on the 10th floor of a downtown hotel. A few days ago we tried about 10 B+B's but were unable to find one for both tonight and tomorrow night so we decided to splurge. We originally booked we suspect a 'closet'. When the guy checking us in heard about our adventure he upgraded us to a 'harbour view' and greatly reduced the price . Could be that he just 'felt sorry' for two drowned rats! Don't know but we will take it just the same.

The blog will go silent for a couple of days. We both need time to reflect upon what we have accomplished and what 'the journey' truly means to us. At this point I cannot put into words how I feel. Maybe glad to be finished the ride but at the same time we are both a little saddened. So a couple of days off are in order.

As we got closer to the end of our journey I kept thinking back to a song by The Arrogant Worms. I would like to end this blog entry with the words to this song. They call it their 'national anthem'. It goes like this:

When I look around me...I cannot believe what I see...It seems as if this country...has lost its will to live...The economy is lousy...we barely have an army...but we can still stand proudly...because CANADA'S really big...We're the second...largest country...on this planet earth...and if Russia keeps on shrinking...then soon we'll be first!...as long as we keep Quebec...The USA has tanks...and Switzerland has banks...they can keep them banks...they just don't amount...cause when you get down to it...you find out what the truth is...it isn't what you do with it...it's the size that counts...most people will tell you that France is pretty large...but you can put fourteen France's...into this land of ours!...We're larger than Malaysia...we're most as big as Asia...we're bigger than Australia...and its a continent...so big we sell them butter...to go see one another...but we often go to other...countries for vacations...Our mountains are very pointy...our prairies are not...the rest is kinda bumpy... But man do we have a lot!...We've got a lot of land...we've got a whole lot of land...So stand up and be proud...and sing it very loud...we stand out from the crowd...cause CANADA'S really big...

Daily Distance = 52.56 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 38 minutes. Average Speed = 14.45 km. Maximum Speed = 50.97 km. Wildlife Sightings = Mink.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

Total Trip Distance = 8455 km.

Stay tuned I will be back with more 'ramblings' in a couple of days!

Wind, Hills, Rain...Just What We Expected In Newfoundland....

Thursday, September 9

Bellevue Beach to Holyrood

After a nice 'relaxing' night in our 'cozy' log cabin we were on the road by 7:30. Climbing out of Bellevue Beach was quite a challenge but we were pleasantly surprised that it was only 2 km not the 5 to 7 that the map showed. Once again we are amazed at the inaccuracies of Newfoundland's Provincial Roadmaps!

Today Newfoundland threw 'everything she had and then some' at us. A strong headwind, lots of hills, and a steady rain made our day another 'challenging one'. I do not think that we had recovered from our tough ride 2 days ago. As Sue said part way through the day, "my leg muscles just will not loosen up". I call it 'dead legs'!

The scenery continued to be spectacular as we climbed up through the valleys. No wonder this province is affectionately referred to as 'The Rock'. The east side is just as spectacular as the west and definitely more hilly. Again we passed through a wind swept area where the small trees were all leaning in one direction. Easy to see what direction the prevailing winds are.

We are staying at the Beach View Motel in Holyrood. Again we have ventured off the highway and come 'down' to the ocean. The motel is situated high on a hill with one of the best views that we have had of houses built on the side of rock above the water. It is just what we had pictured that Newfoundland towns would look like.

Daily Distance = 72.74 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours. Average Speed = 14.53 km. Maximum Speed = 44.93 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gull, Kingfisher, Blue Jay, Moose. (Yes we finally saw a moose on The Rock)!!!

Kevin = 3, Sue = 1.75 (but it had nothing to do with her bike)!

What a Difference a Day Makes....

Wednesday, September 8

Clarenville to Bellevue Beach

On the road at 8:10 and climbing back up to the highway. One thing we have realized on 'The Rock' is that if you leave the highway you can count on doing some climbing. Newfoundland's population is coastal and the Trans Canada is not.

Today more than made up for yesterday. The wind was still strong but primarily in our backs so even though there was still lots of climbing, it did not seem nearly as difficult. Our biggest problem today was a result of yesterday...'tight leg muscles'! It is hard to believe that after all of the cycling that we have done we still have 'fatigued' leg muscles!

As we rode along we came upon the community of Arnold's Cove. We could 'smell' it before we saw it. Arnold's Cove has a 'huge' oil refinery...thus the smell! I suspect it has something to do with Newfoundland's new found offshore oil. As we climbed away from the refinery we passed through an area almost 'void' of vegetation. Either this area had a 'nuclear attack' at some time or it must be one 'windswept' chunk of rock. I suspect it is the latter since we probably would have heard about the 'nuclear theory'!!!

We decided to leave the Trans Canada and head out to a coastal community for our accommodation tonight. Remember that thing about leaving the highway and hills, well we met the 'steepest' hill we have faced in Newfoundland. We are staying in a 'log cabin' on the ocean at the Fiddler's Green Resort. It is a really nice 2 bedroom unit with a full kitchen. Too bad all we have to cook are 'Sidekicks', our old standby.

Daily Distance = 82.57 km. Time on the bikes= 5 hours 4 minutes. Average Speed = 16.29 km. Maximum Speed = 53.94 km. Wildlife Sightings = Osprey, Bald eagle, Cormorants, Black backed gull, Red Squirrel, Mourning Cloak Butterfly.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

Working HARD For Every Pedal Stroke....

Tuesday, September 7

Glovertown to Clarenville

One of the drawbacks of staying at B+B's is that you cannot control your departure time. So today we left Glovertown 'well fuelled' but on the road late! It was 9:20 by the time we had climbed out to the highway.

Today was 'one tough day'. Between the 'many' climbs and the 'terrifically strong' headwind we worked hard for every peddle stroke!!! The headwind gusted so strong at times that it would almost bring you to a stop. One gust moved me so one of my front bags actually glanced off of the guardrail along the side of the highway! We have not worked this hard nor have we been this tired since we faced some terrific winds back in Saskatchewan.

As we rode through Terra Nova National Park we were overtaken by 2 Cross Canada cyclists who had left Vancouver July 6. They were probably in their 60's and were riding 'supported' on really 'nice' road bikes.

We are staying in the Restland Motel in Clarenville. It is not a bad motel with a fairly large room, lots big enough for our 2 bicycles and all of our gear.

Daily Distance = a gruelling 95.52 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 32 minutes (and my butt feels like it). Average speed 14.61 km. Maximum speed 56.19 km. Wildlife sightings = red squirrel, bald eagle, osprey, junco, black backed gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

P.S. The huge 'bank' of black clouds that chased us all afternoon has finally arrived and it is now raining heavily.

Four Months On The Road....

Monday, September 6

Gander to Glovertown

On the road by 7:35 with the sun shining and the wind only 'slightly' less strong. It was nice to be on the road again as we enjoyed views of Gander Lake, Square Pond, and Butts Pond. (Nice names). We encountered many long climbs today one of which was over 5 km. Combined with the wind that blew steady at 30 km and gusted to over 40 km, today's ride had some challenging moments.

As we rode along today we came upon 'Joey's Lookout', a place with a panoramic view of the town of Gambo and Freshwater Bay. The Gambo area is the birthplace of 'Joey Smallwood' Newfoundland's 'Father of Confederation' and it's longtime Premiere. Gambo was an important lumber town from the 1860's until the 1960's. Massive forest fires brought that to an end.

We are staying in the Cuddle - Inn B+B in the town of Glovertown. It is right on the ocean. We were unaware, however, that the town was 5 km off of the highway, and worse yet, all downhill. So tomorrow morning we will have to climb back up to the highway and I mean CLIMB! The other thing that we are finding frustrating is the inaccuracy of the provincial road map. Today was to be 73 km and it was only 67 km. Now I know everyone is thinking "but it was in your favour". Problem is we suspect that will be tacked onto tomorrows distance instead. It makes me wonder if like everything else in Canada, Newfoundland 'subs out' its map making to a foreign company who probably uses 'Google Maps' to get its information. Now that is a real confidence builder.

Daily Distance = 67.18 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 6 minutes. Average Speed = 16.32 km. Maximum Speed = 59.90 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Admiral Butterfly, Junco.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

P.S. Today represented the end of our 4th month on the road!!!

A Good Decision....

Sunday, September 5

Gander

Maybe one of the better decisions we have made on this adventure might well have been taking the day off today. The winds that were predicted most definitely materialized. Steady winds out of the south at 40 km and gusting to over 50 km would have been less than a pleasant experience. 75 km in 'Granny' would have been a bit much!

So again we became tourists. We decided to visit the North Atlantic Aviation Museum. Outside the museum there are 4 airplanes. A 'Lockhead Hudson' (1 of only 8 left in the world), one of the principle aircraft used by the RCAF Ferry service during WWII ,a 'water bomber' used by Newfoundland Forestry Service to fight forest fires, a Beech 18-S (an old RCAF fighter plane), and a CF-101 Voodoo (an old fighter jet). Inside you can get into the cockpit of a DC-3 and examine 50 cal. Machine guns up close. It is a worthwhile visit and the neat part is we had no idea it existed!

Gander...an update. The 'Newfoundland Airport' was built in 1938 to serve as a refuelling station for transatlantic aviation. It was one of the main airfields used by the Royal Air Force Ferry Command (shuttling pilots to England after being trained in North America) and became a USAAF base during WWII. At its peak 10,000 Americans and 5,000 RCAF and RAF were stationed here. No wonder we can see so many ex-military housing units in Gander. This town was military! The RCAF still have a base here. Gander became a commercial airstrip after the war but in recent years has become less important with airplane's ability to not need refuelling. Gander still provides technical help to the commercial and military aircraft of many countries.

Friendly Newfoundlanders...We Think....

Saturday, September 4

Bishop's Falls to Gander

On the road by 7:50 with raingear at the ready. After 2 days of easy riding Newfoundland showed us some hills again. Combined with a strong 'headwind' of 30 km this made for some 'tough slogging'. We have been paying attention to the track of Hurricane Earl to see what effects, if any, it will have on us. It appears that we may miss the rain but the prediction is for some 'nasty' winds up to 60 km from the south...guess what direction we are now heading? So tomorrow we are staying put. It sounds like the west side is even worse off, particularly the Port Aux Basque and Wreckhouse areas.

As we were having lunch on the side of the road today a fellow touring cyclist stopped to chat. He is from Waterloo and is a 4th year philosophy major (real future there) at Memorial University. He is riding from Halifax to St. John's and has to move apartments and be in class on September 9. He will make it as yesterday he cycled a 'ridiculous' 200 km.

As we have cycled through Newfoundland we have realized that we have been 'honked' at more here than anywhere else in Canada. We are unsure if it is because they are trying to be friendly or if Newfoundlanders drive with one hand on their horns! Another thing we have experienced is that grocery store clerks use the term 'my love'. And trust me most of them would not be 'my love'!!!

We are camped out in the Comfort Inn in Gander. As we walked to the grocery store we realized just what an impact the American Air Force base must have had on this town. Large areas of old military housing is quite evident. We do not know what the economy here is based upon now after the Americans pulled out.

Daily Distance = 76.83 tough km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours. Average Speed = 15.37 km. Maximum Speed = 44.10 km. Wildlife Sightings = Still no moose..

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

8000 KM AND COUNTING....

Friday, September 3

Badger to Bishop's Falls

On the road by 8:40 to a beautiful sunny sky. We were in no hurry as we had decided upon a short ride today. We had a 'wind assisted' ride to Grand Falls - Windsor this morning. We followed alongside the Exploits River which is a very large river that at times even had islands in it. As we passed Grand Falls - Windsor we decided to pick up some groceries and have an early lunch. While we were loading our groceries onto our bicycles we were approached by two different men enquiring about our ride. Newfoundlanders sure are friendly. The one shook my hand and 'officially' welcomed me to 'his' province. No it was not Danny Williams!!!

Grand Falls - Windsor is another town hurt by the closure of an Abitibi Bouwater pulp and paper plant about 2 years ago. It sounds, however, like this town has survived okay so far.

After lunch we had another leisurely ride to our destination, the Exploit's River Motel. It is located just East of Bishop's Falls. It is quite a nice little motel located on top of a hill overlooking the Exploits River Valley and the TCH. We are even able to do our laundry. After the last 2 nights, this is 'luxurious'!!!

Daily Distance = 54.30 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 52 minutes. Average Speed = 18.85 km. Maximum Speed = 53.94 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Duck = Mourning Cloak butterfly.

P.S. Did I mention that we passed the 8000 km mark for our adventure???

P.S.S. We are sitting in front of the motel enjoying a Black Horse Lager. Life is good!

"Rollin On Down The Highway"....

Thursday, September 2

Sheppardville to Badger

On the road by 7:25 this morning to a 'dark' sky and a 'bad' forecast. Newfoundland showed us more of its 'flatness' today. The riding was fairly easy as we followed the Trans Canada through the 'middle of nowhere'. Every once in a while a lake would appear and we even caught glimpses of the Ocean. As far as services go this area is void of anything.

Campgrounds in Newfoundland are 'few and far between'. The other thing we have realized is that nobody comes to Newfoundland with a tent. All the parks are set up for RV's. The campground we saw today had some really nice looking sites on the water but the 'drive by' sites were in a gravel parking lot right on the 'bloody' highway. Yipee!!!

And I have not mentioned the heavy rains that we rode through this afternoon and even heavier rains since we arrived at our destination. We are in the Badger Drive Motel. It is another 'crummy' little place but much more reasonably priced than last nights. It has recently been painted so all the switch and receptacle covers have not been put back on. You would not want to do that before you rented the room!!! There also must be a shortage of light bulbs in this province as this one, like last nights, has 50% of them missing!!! But the roof does not leak and we are dry!!!

Daily Distance = 88.59 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 49 minutes. Average Speed = 18.37 km. Maximum Speed = 58.26 km. Wildlife Sightings = Pied-billed Grebe, Black Duck, Gray Jay (it tried to steal Sue's bagel out of her hand).

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

Riding Off Into The Wild Blue Yonder....

Wednesday, September 1

Deer Lake to Baie Verte Junction (Sheppardville)

On the road by 8:00 after a nice breakfast at our B+B. It was 'cool' for the first part of the ride as the temperature was below 10 degrees and it was cloudy. Soon the sun broke through and we enjoyed a 'beautiful sun filled sky'.

We 'finally' turned east today and we also 'finally' found a flat part of Newfoundland. Today's ride reminded us of both Northern Ontario and New Brunswick. The highway 'across the top' is cut through nothing but bush and has very little habitation except for a few private trailer parks. Our # 1 companion was logging trucks arguably as many as we saw in the Fort Francis area. They would be taking their loads to the pulp plant in Deer Lake. We are told that production levels are pretty low so one wonders if it will remain open or if it will close like the one in Stephenville did a couple of years ago.

As we were riding this morning we were overtaken by another Cross Canada Cyclist. We are beginning to get a 'complex' seeing the back wheel of so many cyclists as they 'blow past' us! He has been on a real mission. He left Vancouver on July 12 and has a flight out of St. Johns on September 9. Today he was looking at getting to Grand Falls - Windsor about a 260 km ride. Makes our 100 km seem pretty minuscule!!!

We are staying in the Junction Inn tonight. We had very little choice as the campground that was supposed to exist no longer does. It now says "PRIVATE PROPERTY - KEEP OUT". Okay, we can take a hint! Our motel is not the nicest that we have stayed in but 'beggars cannot be choosers' and it is 'semi' clean.

Daily Distance = 99.16 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 29 minutes. Average Speed = 18.07 km. Maximum Speed = 51.93 km. Wildlife Sightings = Blue Jay, Grey Jay, Moose Tracks

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

Savouring Our Time On The Rock....

Tuesday, August 31

Corner Brook to Deer Lake

On the road by 8:00 with 'raingear' at the ready. The raingear was needed within about 30 minutes as the 'black clouds' produced what we thought they might. No it was not snow but it was not warm either.

Aided by a tail wind today was quite an easy ride. (At least after we climbed back up to the Trans Canada from our Motel). A 6 km descent to the banks of the Humber River was a pleasant surprise. Through the Marble Mountain Resort area, Newfoundland's premiere skiing area, (and maybe the only one) we rode through the rain. We cycled high above Deer Lake (the actual lake) and were rewarded with spectacular views of the rock faced hills, large houses, and the lake itself. A really nice ride was made even better when the rain stopped and dryed us out.

Yesterday afternoon while buying groceries, we met 2 more Cross Canada cyclists. One left Tofino on Vancouver Island June 12. He is from Mississauga and is looking forward to the completion of his journey. The other guy was from Montreal. He is looking at a rather unique way of returning home. He is thinking of going to Argentia and returning to North Sydney. He will then ride to PEI and take a ferry to the Magdellan Islands. He will then take another ferry to the Gaspe. Then he lost me. He may have told me the route after that but his English was only slightly better than my French so we were not understanding each other very well. Today we met a Harley Davidson rider from Alabama. He owns a Harley Dealership and has been on the road for quite some time. Understanding him at times was almost as difficult as the Montreal cyclist!

We are staying at the 'Lucas House B+B' in Deer Lake. We have the run of the house. It is owned by a British gentleman who was an urban planner in the 'old country' up until 4 years ago. This is the day for accents and none of them are Newfoundland ones! He jokingly said that there is not a lot of calling for urban planners in Newfoundland. He instead owns 2 B+B's.

Daily Distance = 57.17 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 17 minutes. Average Speed = 17.36 km. Maximum Speed = 62.25 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gulls, Moose tracks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

"Sometimes, the path forward begins with a journey back"...

Monday, August 30

Barachois Pond Provincial Park to Corner Brook

Awoke to an overcast sky this morning. Good part about that is that there was no 'dew' unlike the soaked fly we had to pack away yesterday. On the bikes by 8:00. Remember that hill in the campground I talked about yesterday, well it was a 'beauty'. It took almost 20 minutes to climb the 2 km to the highway. That maybe should have been a 'warning' of what was to come. Today was all about climbing. Long gradual hills kept coming at us. It is funny how when you are riding a bicycle it seems like you climb all day and end up right back down at the Ocean. I do not understand how that can be!!! To add to our difficulties we faced a strong head wind for the last 30 km. But the sun came out and it was a beautiful day.

Last night we received an email from a fellow Cross Canada Cyclist that made us begin to think about what this adventure 'truly' means to us and how we can share 'a small piece' of it with others. It has also made us think about 'enjoying' Newfoundland and not getting caught up in the end goal, St. Johns. Thanks Brian for sharing those words with us. Our perspective has changed overnight.

Today's ride also got us thinking about the scenery of Newfoundland. "Sometimes the path forward begins with a journey back". At times today it was like we were back in BC. at the beginning of this journey. If you let your mind wander (and while climbing there is lots of time for that) you could imagine these climbs today were actually in BC. No there are no 27 km climbs to a pass but the plateau that we rode onto today made us feel like we were at the top of the world just like BC. (Even though we were 3000 metres lower than some of the passes in BC).

We are in the Comfort Inn in Corner Brook. Our room overlooks the bizarre layout of a hill town and overlooks the Ocean. All the hills and my 'tender' knee made us shorten our day.

Daily Distance = 73.28 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 12 minutes. Average Speed = 14.15 km. Maximum Speed = 65.54 km (guess it was not all uphill)! Wildlife Sightings = White Throated Sparrow, Junco, red squirrel.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

Up and Down Newfoundland's West Side....

Sunday, August 29

Crabbe River to Barachois Pond Provincial Park

The 'failure' of my internal alarm clock caused us to get off to a late start. With the temperature hovering around 6 degrees we set off at 8:20.

Today was all about climbing long gradual hills followed by just as many 'swooping' downhills. The scenery remained the same with 'peaks' in the distance and small 'stunted' trees along the sides of the road. Every once in a while we would get a view of the ocean. The sunshine and very little wind made the temperature climb to about 20 degrees but it seemed warmer. Perfect conditions for a 'leisurely' ride...well maybe not a 'leisurely' one but at least a 'nice' one.

The Trans Canada through Newfoundland has been good to cycle on. A 4 foot shoulder and almost 'no' traffic has made us 'happy bikers'. We were just getting used to that when our 'serenity' was interupted by a 'rumble' strip. Whoever put this one on must have been 'into the sauce'. It wandered all over the shoulder. The strip would be 1 foot off of the white line and 1 1/2 feet wide leaving very little for us to ride on. We are told we will deal with this off and on for all of Newfoundland. OH GOODY!!!

We are camping at Barachois Pond Provincial Park. We are in the 'day use' area because these sites are much more private and quiet. The lady at the gate told us that they "don't let 'locals' camp here" but keep it for cyclists and oversized rigs. Our site is on Barachois Pond nestled under Barachois Mountain ( a stunning rock face hill). Quite a nice little site but our climb out of here tomorrow morning (1.8 km of extreme uphill) to the highway will be a real challenge!!!

Daily Distance = 61.03 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 44 minutes. Average Speed = 16.33 km. Maximum Speed = 53.42 km. Wildlife Sightings = Junco, red squirrel, Moose tracks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

"And then you find yourself seemingly in the middle of nowhere, and oddly enough, it is exactly where you want to be."

Saturday, August 28

Channel-Port Aux Basques to Crabbe River

On the road by 7:50 (did you catch that Eric?). The sun was shining despite what the weather channel said. I am beginning to put less and less faith in meteorologists! But, I will not complain this time about them being wrong!

Today was truly a 'magnificent' ride. With the sun shining and very little wind, we wound our way through the hills heading northward into Newfoundland. We had been fearing this part of our ride because we knew of the 'Wreckhouse' area of the TransCanada from our previous visit. The Wreckhouse area is famous for its winds. And I mean winds! When Newfoundland had a railway (narrow gauge track) the winds were known to 'flip' railcars in this area. So now you know why we were fearing it. At about 65 km we were either getting tired or the hills were getting steeper because the rest of the day was definitely more challenging. I suspect both were happening.

We are camping in the middle of nowhere. It is a small private campground called Crabbe River R.V. And Trailer Park. We believe it used to be a Provincial Park but it is no longer. Our site is not really a site. We are in the 'kids' playground, but oddly enough, it is exactly where we want to be, the middle of nowhere!

Daily Distance = 98.78 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 47 minutes. Average Speed = 17.07 km. Maximum Speed = 59.34 km.

Wildlife sightings = goldfinches, rabbit, red squirrel, chipmunk, Yellow Rumped Warbler

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0

Thank You, Eric...And Now We Are 2....

Friday, August 27

North Sydney to Port Aux Basque, Newfoundland

Up and at it this morning by the 'insane' hour of 5:00 so we could say 'goodbye' to everyone before leaving for the ferry. By 6:50 we were waiting in the 'staging lanes' with the 'big boys', some Harley Davidson riders. One asked where we had come from and when we said Vancouver his reaction was "holy shit". We boarded the ferry and are presently on our way to our 10th and final province, Newfoundland.

As we were leaving North Sydney this morning we were experiencing 'butterflies' as we both seem to be somewhat nervous about heading off again on our own. It was fun to be tourists for the past 3 days and made extra special by being able to spend some time with Cindy and Andy, Collin, Cara and Helen. Oh yes and I cannot forget 'Eric'. Thank you Eric for being such a 'big' part of 'our' adventure. I hope that 'your' adventure was memorable and that you will cherish some of the moments for years to come. We also were able to have a visit with friends from London, Teri, Ian, Alex and Meagan. It was quite a surprise for us to get your call and great to have a visit in Cape Breton of all places!

Nova Scotia...lousy drivers but a great place to visit. About the drivers...we had more 'stupid' drivers in Nova Scotia than anywhere else so far on this trip. From the early experience on a 'traffic circle' where we were 'swore at' once and 'cut off' twice to the numerous 'clowns' who passed cars while meeting us, Nova Scotia drivers 'stink'!!! Making up for the drivers, however, was the incredible scenery we experienced particularily on Cape Breton. The Cabot Trail can be matched for 'sheer beauty' by very few places that we have ever visited. Louisbourg and the Miner's Museum should be experienced by anyone who possibly can. The Baddeck area is a 'sail boaters' paradise and the home of the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, another worthwhile destination.

Our ferry ride turned out to be a lot longer than was scheduled so our arrival late in the day made us opt for 'another' motel stay. We are in the St. Christopher's Hotel in Port Aux Basques and getting ourselves mentally prepared for our push across Newfoundland.

Daily Distance = A 'Whopping' 8.60 km plus a 7 1/2 hour ferry ride. Time on the bikes = 38 minutes. Average Speed = 13.53 km. Maximum Speed = 36.75 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Ducks, Cormorants.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

The Miner's Museum

Thursday, August 26

We visited the Miner's Museum in Glace Bay today. In 1967, as a Centennial Project, the Miner's Association in conjunction with the Nova Scotia government built the museum as a living tribute to coal mining in the Sydney area. We were able to go into a mine and out under the ocean. The mine was as low as 4 feet at times and dripping water. The tour was led by a former coal miner who worked underground for over 30 years. He knew his stuff and told stories of many of his underground experiences. The last coal mine closed in 1999 and this area has suffered economically ever since. Anyone travelling in the area should make this a destination. It is truly worth the stop.

We are off to catch the ferry tomorrow morning to Newfoundland. Province # 9 down...here we come # 10.

Cabot Trail...Revisited....

Wednesday, August 25

Today consisted of a trip around the Cabot Trail by car. And trust me am I ever glad we did not cycle it! Between the construction, the lack of shoulders, the traffic and all the 'amazing hills', it would have been 'really tough'. A few 'road bikers' were out and we saw 2 'recumbents' struggling to climb one of the many hills. You know it is the 3rd time we have driven the Cabot Trail and we have not tired of the incredible views. The only way I would ever consider a bicycle ride around it would be 'without gear'. And we will leave that for another time...possibly...maybe with 'my next wife'!!!

Daily Distance = The Bikes Once Again Never Moved.

Fortress of Louisbourg

Tuesday , August 24

We spent today visiting the Fortress of Loiusbourg. It is a 'fascinating' re-creation of 'a day in the life of the fortress in 1744'. People in period costume explain how Louisbourg had become France's most important 'stronghold' and 'seaport'. It was based on a thriving 'cod' industry and was a fortified community. It was twice defeated by the British. The second time the fortifications were destroyed.

Louisbourg was re-created as a 'make work project' for the laid off coal miners of Cape Breton. Over a 20 year period 1\5 of the town was rebuilt on the very spots that they had stood. It truly is a special place to visit! More archeological digs continue on the rest of the site.

Daily Distance = 'The Bikes Never Moved'.

A Day of Doing Nothing...And The Crew Arrives....

Monday, August 23

North Sydney

Today was a day off to relax, do laundry (how exciting!) and some grocery shopping (how exciting!). We have a cottage rented for the next 4 nights and a car rented so we can 'truly' be tourists. A trip around the Cabot Trail, a visit to Louisbourg, and maybe a boat outing is how we plan to spend our days off.

The crew has arrived to pick up Eric so we now have a 'full' cottage.

Daily Distance = 5.75 km. Time On The Bike = 27 minutes. Average Speed = 12.52 km. Maximum Speed = 28.86 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Kellys' 14 Kilometres

Sunday, August 22

Baddeck to North Sydney

On the road by 7:58 'with only one moon in the sky'. It looked like a beautiful day for a ride. A moderate temperature with sunshine, a few clouds, and some small hills greeted us. By 8:30 we had all of our rain gear on and got soaked for the first of 4 times on the day.

We climbed 7 km up Kellys Mountain at a low grade and rolled down the other side at high speeds before having to slow down for the bridge at the bottom. It was my first ever mountain and I have to applaud the 'troopers' that went through the mountain passes out west. This was just a small one and must have paled in comparison.

Tonight we are staying in The Clansman Motel just minutes from North Sydney and the Newfoundland Ferry. We have been upgraded from our motel room to the cottage on site that we will be staying in for the next 4 days to tour Cape Breton "BY CAR".

Daily Distance = 61.98 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 9 minutes 35 seconds. Average Speed = 14.90 km. Maximum Speed = 54.47 km. Wildlife Sightings = Bald Eagle, Black Backed Gull, Goldfinch, Cormorants.

A special Thanks to Sue and Kevin for allowing me to be part of their wonderful adventure.

Written by Eric

History and Big Puddles....

Saturday, August 21

Baddeck

Today we were able to take our time and enjoy '2' coffees, something we have rarely been able to do. After riding into Baddeck we enjoyed a second breakfast. My this journey is a tough one!

We enjoyed a 'history lesson' today as we visited the Alexander Graham Bell Museum. We knew of his work to invent the telephone but we were unaware of all the other things that he worked on in his life...genetic study of sheep, airplane development, hydrofoil development, phonograph development, work in teaching the deaf, x-ray development. You know his life was made a lot easier when he married 'Mable' a former deaf student of his who to say the least was 'loaded'. Combined with his 'fortune from the Bell Telephone Company, life got a lot easier. He built a castle in Baddeck that later in life became the headquarters for his airplane and hydrofoil experimentation. The other thing that became apparent was that he 'hired' and 'housed' experts to develop his ideas. He was an 'ideas guy' and had the money to hire expertise and a wife to manage his financial affairs.

Now for the 'big puddles' part...when we began to ride back to our campground it began to rain and I do not mean a light rain. It absolutely poured. Our tents handled the rain OK but you know they did not handle the 'big puddle' of water that they were sitting in. The result was we were forced to move to a motel in Baddeck, The Cabot Trail Motel, so we could begin to dry our sleeping pads, sleeping bags, etc. We have the humidity level in the room 'through the roof' to say the least. And we are not even bothering to try to dry our tents. THE ADVENTURE CONTINUES!!!

Daily Distance = 32.90 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 30 minutes. Average Speed = 13.12 km. Maximum Speed = 42.52 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Squirrel, Grey cheeked Thrush, Chipmunk.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

A Good Day For A Ride....

Friday, August 20

Port Hastings to Baddeck

On the road this morning by 7:40. I actually looked to see if there were '2 moons in the sky' but it was too cloudy to see. I am sure that there must have been!!!

Today's ride was all about 'gradual climbing' through Cape Breton's hills. (I know we are not in the 'truly' hilly area of Cape Breton...we are keeping that for our 'bicycle free' days in North Sydney). We travelled through re-forested land today and even saw some farmland, using the term very loosely! After one of our many uphills followed by a downhill we caught our first glimpse of Bras d' Or Lake, Cape Breton's 'inland sea' as one advertisement called it. Soon it became our constant companion giving us the feeling that we were back in Northern Ontario following Lake Superior. (You know I am kind of glad 'we are where we are' and not back in Northern Ontario)!

As we sat down to eat lunch at a War Memorial Park we had another cyclist join us for lunch. One of the main things we had was a 'wild blueberry pie' purchased across the road. (And oh it was good). The cyclist is a ESL teacher from New York City and has cycled north and is continuing to Newfoundland. He seemed like a 'laid back' kind of guy until he got on his bike and 'left us in his dust'! We also came upon a tandem bike and while riding chatted with them. They were an older couple who had just completed the Cabot Trail and when I said we had chosen not to ride it, They said "good choice".

We are camping just outside of Baddeck in the Adventures East Campground, a small campground with a pool and laundry facilities. (Doing laundry really has become a routine that is a necessary evil). Tomorrow we are going to 'play tourist' again and visit the Alexander Graham Bell Museum in Baddeck.

Daily Distance = 80.47 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 56 minutes. Average Speed = 16.30 km. Maximum Speed = 56.19 km. Wildlife Sightings = Bald Eagle, Red Tailed Hawk, Marsh Hawk, Yellow Legs, Blue Jay, Cedar Waxwing, Kingfisher, Garter Snake.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Hills...Nova Scotia Style....

Thursday, August 19

Antigonish to Port Hastings

Last night we spent our evening walking around the campus of St. Francis Xavier University and watched some football players running drills and watched a soccer practice. The university only has 2700 students but is known for its sports.

On the road by 8:20 but stopped again 5 minutes later for a grocery stop. On the road for real by 8:50. Today's ride took us through lots of forest land and hills. Too much traffic and at times not much shoulder made riding a challenge at times. Did I mention the word hills??? Nova Scotia sure is hilly! We climbed numerous long gradual grades one of which was over 4 km long. (And we have just got to Cape Breton...wonder what tomorrow will bring)???

As we crossed the Canso Causeway we met a train, watched a freighter being loaded with gravel and saw the 'swing bridge' open to let a sailboat through.

We are staying at the Hearth and Stone Inn between Port Hastings and Port Hawkesbury. Our room overlooks the Strait of Canso and we watched the freighter pull out and head off. (Did not know that we exported gravel from Canada)???

Daily Distance = 57.36 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 39 minutes. Average Speed = 15.66 km. Maximum Speed = 50.05 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Tailed Hawk, Bald Eagle, Goldfinch, Black Backed Gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

A Day On The TCH....

Wednesday, August 18

New Glasgow to Antigonish

On the road by 8:10 as far as the grocery store which was the wrong direction for our ride. Stocked up and on the road 'for real' by 8:55. Today's ride took us entirely on the Trans Canada. It was quite a nice ride despite the heat and we benefited from a decent tail wind. (Nice after yesterday)!!!

The scenery was quite nice with trees of every shade of green imaginable. We had numerous long gradual climbs followed by some long downhills. We rode through a beautiful section of countryside where we wound our way through hills along a stream. As picturesque as we have seen for a while.

We are camping in Antigonish at Whiddens Campground and Cottages in the downtown of the city.

P.S. Nova Scotia drivers are vying for the 'title of most unfriendly to cyclists'. Yesterday we had a couple of 'boneheaded' moves as we were proceeding around a traffic circle and again today we had someone pass while meeting us. I guess we are 'invisible' in Nova Scotian's eyes. Hope that improves!!!

Daily Distance = 64.03 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 51 minutes. Average Speed = 16.56 km. Maximum Speed = 56.19 km. Wildlife Sightings = Chickadees.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Nova Scotia We Are Here....

Tuesday, August 17

Wood Islands to New Glasgow

A couple of rainstorms during the night left our campground soggy but our tents were able to dry because of the strong south winds off of the water. Packed up and on our way to the ferry dock by 8:05. By 8:30 we were wandering around the ferry dock waiting for our ferry to take us from PEI to our 9th province, Nova Scotia.

A 75 minute ferry ride was followed by a tough 8 km ride to the information place in Pictou.

After lunch the real 'slogging' began. We faced a 20 km south wind with gusts of 35 km (according to the Weather Channel) all the way to the Trans Canada. At times we were 'crawling' at speeds under 10 km. And did I mention that this part of Nova Scotia was not flat? As the guy at the information place said "nowhere in Nova Scotia is there a flat road". Doesn't that sound promising? And about the information place...this was the friendliest, most knowledgeable, best serviced Provincial Information place we have come across in our whole adventure. They even booked us a motel for tonight 'free of charge'!

We had another short day as we are planning our 'attack' of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton. (This really is 'kicking the '#@+$' out of our daily average)!!!

Daily Distance = 33.00 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 27 minutes. Average Speed = 13.38 km. Maximum Speed = 46.69 km. Wildlife Sightings = Marsh Hawk, Red Tailed Hawk, Osprey, Cormorants, Bald Eagle, Great Blue Heron, Black Ducks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

On The Road Again....

On the road by 8:05 with 'another' beautiful blue sky. Today's ride took us on the Trans Canada Highway once again through some more of PEI's cropland and especially potatoes. As we got closer to the east end of the island the agricultural land became much poorer as more and more trees dominated the landscape. The ride was not flat with many long 'grades' to climb.

PEI...A Summer Vacation Paradise! PEI is made for tourists. It has beautiful beaches, cities with developed waterfronts, and of course 'Anne of Green Gables' to attract 1000's of visitors. The downside is that accommodation, though plentiful, is hard to come by when cycling. Reservations are almost a necessity. PEI has varied agriculture of course dominated by potatoes. With a population of only 132,000 it is hard to believe it is its own province! Protective they are, however, with a law that prohibits any individual or corporation from owning more than 2000 acres! As for cycling on the island, it is not as easy as one might think. Hills dominate the island and coupled with shoulderless highways (except the Trans Canada) makes cycling a challenge

We are camping at Northumberland Provincial Park 2 km from the ferry terminal. Our site is right on the ocean overlooking the ferry terminal and in the distance can be seen our 9th province, Nova Scotia!!!

Daily Distance = 66.92 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 7 minutes. Average Speed = 16.20 km. Maximum Speed = 36.41km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Heron, Black Duck, Marsh Hawk, White Crowned Sparrow, Cedar Waxwing, Black Backed Gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. Eric reached the 3000 km mark today for his ride!!!

A Canadian History Lesson....

Sunday, August 15

Charlottetown

A dinner at an Irish Pub complete with some 'Irish Ale' followed by a show was a nice way of spending our first evening in Charlottetown. And I believe for only the second time on this adventure we were completely 'off of our bikes' today.

We visited Province House National Historic Site of Canada, PEI's present day legislature, and the site of the 1864 Charlottetown Conference, the meetings that set the 'blueprint' for the formation of Canada in 1867. We toured the old historic streets of Charlottetown and also Founders Hall. Founders Hall is a 'walk through time' tracing the formation of Canada from 1864 and concluding with the formation of Nunavut in 1999...A Canadian History Lesson!

We decided to stay at our motel for an extra day so we did not have to ride our bikes back into the city to be 'tourists'.

Off To Charlottetown....

Saturday, August 14

New Glasgow to Charlottetown

Last night's New Glasgow Lobster Supper can only be described as 'superb'. Our campground hosts took us for a quick tour up into the 'hills' above New Glasgow to a golf course with "the best views in PEI" (at least that is what our host told us) before dropping us at the dinner first course, seafood chowder (as much as you could eat), rolls (as much as you could eat), and mussels (as many as you could eat and served in a pail). Second course, a salad. Third course, lobster or salmon. Fourth course, 5 kinds of pie or strawberry shortcake (as many pieces as you wanted). Do you think we tried our darndest to get our money's worth??? As a bonus while having our pie, a hot air balloon was launched from the lawn outside of our window. Up to the gift shop to get them to phone our hosts and we were picked up and given a 2nd tour of the area by our hosts.

Before leaving the campground this morning we talked to a fellow Cross Canada cyclist who along with 2 other guys left Vancouver May 17 and reached Lunenburg, their final destination by July 24. His wife has now joined him and they are cycling PEI's Confederation Trail (rail trail that crosses PEI) before returning home to Ontario. I also must mention that of all the campgrounds we have stayed in The New Glasgow Highlands Campground is 'hands down' the friendliest and cleanest. Any one travelling in PEI should make a stop here!

Now for the ride...PEI again showed us it is 'not' flat. Many climbs were necessary to get ourselves to the Confederation Trail and then the rail trail down into Charlottetown. We are staying at the Quality Inn in the downtown area. We are going to 'The Theatre' again to 'get some culture' for our 15 year old friend!

Daily Distance = 31.23 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 16 minutes. Average Speed = 13.74 km. Maximum Speed = 50.97 km. Wildlife Sightings = Junco, Black Duck, Bald Eagle, Chipmunk.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Crossing The Island...Sounds Easy...Not Particularily....

Friday, August 13

Summerside to New Glasgow

Last nights show of Highland dancing, piping and drumming was quite entertaining and I believe even Eric would have to agree. On the road by 7:55, it must have been 'A Miracle'! Our ride north east away from Summerside was similar to yesterday's ride, at least in the beginning. Again we went through potato country and saw numerous farmers harvesting wheat.

We came upon another bakeshop today, in Kensington, that provided us with some mid morning 'sweets' and will provide us with some evening 'treats' as well. If people only new how lousy Tim Horton's donuts are compared to these small bakery’s!

As we rode towards Cavendish today we went past one of the largest factories that we have seen on our trip. Cavendish Farms, the 'French Fry' company has two plants across the road from each other. Both were massive buildings and we suspect a major employer of the area.

We stopped at the L.M. Montgomery National Historic Site, Green Gables, to tour a re-creation of where Lucy Maude Montgomery grew up and was inspired to write her famous novels. As we rode away from Cavendish, the hills of PEI appeared in their 'full glory'. Our relaxing ride was over. The climbing really began. Some long, steep hills faced as we headed away from Cavendish to our destination, The New Glasgow Highlands Campground. I guess the name should have been a clue as to what we were about to face. We have a small cabin for the night and the owners are going to take us to the New Glasgow Lobster Supper. These suppers have been served daily since 1958. I think they may have this down to a science!

Daily Distance =50.12 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 9 minutes. Average Speed = 15.89 km. Maximum Speed = 64.94 km. Wildlife Sightings = Yellowlegs, Chipmunks, Red Eyed Vireo, Yellow Rumped Warbler, Great Blue Heron, Black Ducks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. Today we passed 7000 km for our adventure!!!

Being A Tourist....

Thursday, August 12

Confederation Bridge to Summerside

On the road by 8:05 this morning with a beautiful blue sky. We mapped out a plan last night to spend 4 days in PEI being tourists. So today's ride was a short one through PEI's countryside. We were greeted with panoramic views of the Confederation Bridge, a truly 'amazing' structure 13 km long. PEI's countryside is simply 'beautiful'. Farmland at its best! Wheat, canola, and of course how could you forget the potatoes. Acres and acres of 'spuds' (30 % of Canadian production comes from PEI). Obviously the 'red' soil is productive. A unique thing we saw today was 'rural milk delivery'. Can you imagine door to door delivery in 2010???

By 10:00 am we were sitting eating nanaimo bars, peanut butter cookies and chocolate macaroons at a bakery in Summerside. Summerside was our destination for the day and we spent our time walking the boardwalk along the old wharf area. And oh yes, we had a game of mini golf (on a course with water hazards and sand traps) and we will not talk about who won...Sue...no...Eric...no!!! We are going to The College of Piping and Celtic Performing Arts of Canada to see a show tonight, The Highland Storm. We are staying at the Mulberry Motel in Summerside, in a motel because the campgrounds were outside of town and we have tickets to the dance show and would have had to 'ride in the dark', not a good option!!!

Daily Distance = 23.55 km. Time on the bikes = 1 hour 38 minutes. Average Speed = 14.32 km. Maximum Speed = 37.44 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gulls, Piping Plovers.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Leaving Province #7 Behind....

Wednesday, August 11

Shediac to Borden-Carleton, Prince Edward Island

Packed up our wet tents and on the road by 8:20. Just does not seem to matter how much practice we have, 'some of us just cannot get 'our' acts together in the morning. (And which two do you think I might be referring to...Sue...Eric...or maybe both)???

Our ride today was supposed to be an easy short ride to the bridge to PEI. Some things do not go as planned. Our 50km ride turned into 65 due to a road closure! Our forecast for light winds turned into a 'very strong' headwind for the last 20 km approach to the bridge.

We were shuttled across the bridge (bicycles are not allowed on the Confederation Bridge) and dropped off at the 'brand new' Gateway Village and PEI's 'huge' visitor centre. We watched a video on the building of the bridge, a 'brag fest' about a 'mega project' finished 'on time' and 'on budget'. Funny how they failed to brag about what that cost actually was!

We are staying at the Carleton Motel, 2 km from the bridge and are planning our extended 'holiday within a holiday' on PEI.

New Brunswick...a province of many 'surprises'. First and foremost how 'French' this province is. We had to keep reminding ourselves that we were not in Quebec. The area we rode through has French as its dominant language. Secondly, (and connected to the first) how many 'Acadian Flags' that were flying. The third thing would have to be the vast areas of 'nothingness' that we cycled through. Also, how hard hit New Brunswick has been by 'plant closures' mostly due to the collapse of the lumber industry. Cycling in the province is OK. The roads have some shoulders but are inconsistent. Goodbye New Brunswick (Province # 7) and hello Prince Edward Island. Daily Distance = 65.80 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 2 minutes. Average Speed = 16.31 km. Maximum Speed = 40.02 km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Herons, Osprey, Black Backed Gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Life really is good!!

Tuesday, August 10

Bouctouche to Shediac

After our full continental breakfast we were on the road by 8:20. The sun shone while we meandered our way along the Atlantic Shoreline. The ride was leisurely and flat and actually scenic, unlike the last 2 days. We had great views of the ocean and lots of 'big' houses to look at. Over the last few days we have also crossed 'numerous' bridges of many styles. Today's ride took us over a wooden structure with a wooden deck covered by asphalt (and in really bad shape). We were wondering how old some of these structures actually are?

As we rode along we came to the town of Shediac, a bustling town with 'way too many tourists' and thus 'way too many cars'! Our intended destination was Parlee Beach Provincial Park, but due to New Brunswick's 'lack' of road signage, we somehow missed it and were forced into 'Plan B'. Plan B is a 'private campground', Ocean View, located 'on the ocean' and I mean 'on the ocean'! Our tents are set up only a few metres from the water. (Well a little further now since the tide is going out)! We are hoping that the weather forecast for tonight is not accurate.

Daily Distance = 59.16 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 37 minutes. Average Speed = 16.32 km. Maximum Speed = 38.53 km. Wildlife Sightings = Willet, Osprey, Great Blue Heron, Marsh Hawk, Kingfisher.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

You know "Life really is Good"!!!

Meteorologist 100%...Eric 0%....

Monday, August 9

Miramichi to Bouctouche

Woke up to a dark sky so we quickly packed up our tents before the rain. And sure enough before we finished it was raining. We took 'refuge' in the laundry room to finish our breakfast and final pack. On the road by 8:20 with our raingear on.

Today's ride took us through a whole lot more of 'nothingness' along Hwy 11. Turning onto Hwy 134 took us past Kouchibouguac National Park and then through the town of Richibucto. In Richibucto we stopped to watch lobster traps being loaded onto lobster boats. It appears that the lobster fishery plays a huge roll in this area.

Meteorologist 100%...Eric 0%...that is how the weather prediction score went for today. Rain was predicted and rain we got! By times it was rather heavy particularly the last couple of hours. And did I mention the headwind! Now to the 'Eric prediction'. He maintained that the sun would shine by 4:00. Boy was he wrong! Maybe the sun was shining in Australia!!!

We are keeping our record intact. One night camping, one night in a motel! We are staying at the Auberge Bouctouche Inn. It is quite a nice motel overlooking the town and the Irving Nature Interpretive Centre. We have done to this room what we are really good at doing...make it a mess! It is still absolutely pouring outside!

Daily Distance = 81.22 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 7 minutes. Average Speed = 15.90 km. Maximum Speed = 34.81 km. Wildlife Sightings = Caspian Terns, Cedar Waxwing.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Head Winds...Hills...Nothing But Trees....

Sunday, August 8

Bathurst to Miramichi

When we woke this morning the temperature was a 'brisk' 6 degrees. I thought this was summer! On the road by 8:00 after a 'full' continental breakfast at our motel. An easy ride through the city of Bathurst as it was Sunday morning and no-one was on the streets. Great for cyclists! As we left the city we soon realized that 'Mother Nature' was not on our side. The predicted 10 km wind from the southwest soon became a 'full blown headwind'. We do not know how strong but 'suffice it to say' it was 'considerably' stronger than 10 km. As we continued across the Acadian Peninsula it became quite clear that the day was going to be even tougher as the hills began to appear. Once on Hwy 8 we were challenged by a series of climbs one of which was 2.5 km long. (And do not forget the headwind)!!! And the scenery was truly non-existent. If you like pavement and scrubby trees this is the road for you!

We are staying at Camping Miramichi, 10 km south of the city. It is a nice little campground with very friendly owners and fellow campers.

Daily Distance = 96.32 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 42 minutes. Average Speed = 14.36 km. Maximum Speed = 42.90 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Squirrel, Bluebird, Black Duck, Merlins, Mud tracks of Moose on the highway...Eric and Sue!

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

A Short Ride...

Saturday, August 7

Pointe-Verte to Bathurst

Everyone got to sleep in this morning (at least the other 2 did)! We let our tents and tarp dry today before we got on the road. We had made a decision last night that we were not interested in trying for Miramichi today as it would have called for another long day and I think there might have been a 'revolt of the troops'. Besides we needed to replenish many of our supplies. So we did not leave until 10:00, the latest departure of our adventure!

We are staying at the Comfort Inn in Bathurst getting ourselves ready for our push through New Brunswick. Camping was not an option because the campground would have meant a 10 to 15 km ride out of our way that would have had to be repeated tomorrow morning. Not an option!!!

The Province of Québec...14 days of riding and most of it enjoyable. We traveled through some of the best looking farmland and largest Dairy Operations we have ever seen. The St. Lawrence River probably cannot be matched for its vastness. At times we were able to see ocean going ships carrying their vast loads. And what can you say about 'historic' Québec City, a city that everyone should visit if at all possible. Last but not least, I would be remiss in not talking about 'cycling' in Quebec. This is a province that has put a lot of emphasis and 'resources' into the promotion of cycling. Even more impressive is that far more people actually cycle here than any other province. It was a fun province to go through. And as for the 'language thing', Eric certainly helped us out but it is really astounding to me that Québecers can speak English and yet in Ontario we make 'no effort' to learn our other official language. Just does not seem right!!!

Daily Distance = 32.03 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours. Average Speed = 16:00 km. Maximum Speed = 51.93 km. Wildlife Sightings = Merlins, Ospreys.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. Today represented the beginning of our 4th month on the road!!!

Welcome to New Brunswick....

Friday, August 6

Matapédia to Pointe-Verte, New Brunswick

On the road by 7:55. Five minutes later it was 9:00. That is how long it took us to ride out of Quebec and into New Brunswick and another time zone. So we are now in our 7th province!

Today's ride took us through the last of the Appalachian Mountains as we continued to catch glimpses of the Gaspé Peninsula across Chaleur Bay part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. As we rode through Dalhousie we were treated to one of the steepest climbs of our entire trip, a 13% grade, that even our 'young legged friend' found difficult.

We rode along Hwy 134, the coastal highway, and enjoyed our views of the beginning of the Atlantic Ocean. We kept catching glimpses of this huge smoke stack 'spewing' god only knows what, out of it. It turned out to be a power plant located at Belledune. We suspect it is a 'coal fired' plant. Belledune is also the home of a massive zinc smelter that is either shut down for repairs or is being 'dismantled', we could not decide which. Not much activity and nothing coming from it's 'smoke stacks'. That's okay as there really was enough 'nasty stuff' coming out of the power plant to go around!!!

We are camping at Pointe-Verte in the Cedar Cove Campground. Once again we lucked out in today's ride as the forecast was for afternoon rains which did not materialize until we had just set up our tents and 'our trusty tarp' over the picnic table. (I know Neil, now I am praising the stupid thing!!!)

Daily Distance = 109.16 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 55 minutes. Average Speed = 18.42 km. Maximum Speed = 64.36 km. Wildlife Sightings = Merlins, Ruby Throated Hummingbirds.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Riding In The Mountains...East Coast Style....

Thursday, August 5

Val-Brillant to Matapédia

Two thunderstorms and two trains during the night guaranteed a lot of 'awake' time, at least for some of us. Eric never heard a thing! Oh to be 'oblivious' to your surroundings!

Our 'soaked' gear packed away and on the road by 8:25. Today's ride took us up, the key word being 'up', into the Appalachian Mountains. We thought yesterday's ride was challenging, well today was tougher. The hills were much more gradual but coupled with heavy traffic, the lack of shoulders at times, and the 32 degrees temperatures, today was difficult. The scenery reminded us of BC as we followed the Matapédia River as it meandered its way through the mountains. All the times we have travelled to the east coast we never once realized that this route was a possibility. All of those vacationers taking the Trans Canada down into New Brunswick are missing a 'real treat', the Gaspé Peninsula.

We are staying at the Motel Restigouche in Matapédia, the only accommodation in the area. And guess what runs right beside the motel??? The train!!! We are only a 'stones throw' from entering the 7th province of our adventure.

Daily Distance = 94.28 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 16 minutes. Average Speed = 17.89 km. Maximum Speed = 52.92 km. Wildlife Sightings = Not much we were too hot and miserable to pay attention to anything!

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Goodbye St. Lawrence....

Wednesday, August 4

Rimouski to Val-Brillant

Woke this morning to the sound of a thunderstorm and heavy rain. Good thing we were in a motel even if our room was the size of a 'glorified closet'! By the time we were packed and ready to go the rain had stopped but the sky remained quite 'ugly'

Rimouski represents the end of the St. Lawrence River and the beginning of the Gulf of St. Lawrence...so 'in theory' we really have made it to the Atlantic Ocean! As we pedaled along today we were treated to the sighting of seals, another indication we have made it to the ocean. At Sainte-Flavie we had to say goodbye to the St. Lawrence and turn inland to cross the Gaspé Peninsula and therefore across the Appalachian Mountains. Yes, from Sainte-Flavie for about the next 35 km we were faced with some climbing, one of which was 8%. Mont-Joli did not get it's name for nothing!

As we 'climbed' and 'weaved' our way across the Gaspé we saw farm fields up the side of tremendous hills. As Eric said..."You would want 4 wheel drive tractors with duals on them to work in those fields".

We are camping at Val-Brillant at Camping Bois Et Berges. We have a very 'treed' site that we have been able to set a tarp up over the picnic table as the sky was extremely 'black' as we arrived. So far we have dodged the rain. Let's hope it remains so!!!

Daily Distance = 83.37 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 59 minutes. Average Speed = 16.72 km. Maximum Speed = 57.21 km. Wildlife Sightings = Seals, Black Ducks, Cedar Waxwings.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Le Site Historique Maritime de la Point-au-Père....

Tuesday, August 3

West side of Rimouski to the East side of Rimouski

Awoke this morning to the rumble of thunder. We scrambled to get our gear and tents packed up. As we were taking the tents down we were chased to a picnic shelter beside our campsite by heavy rain. Luck was with us as we were able to finish packing, have breakfast, and wait out the rain. On the road by 8:55. Five kilometers later we stopped for our second breakfast, and I mean a full one. An amazing plateful of food was consumed, particularly by Eric and myself. This not having to worry about how much we eat sure is great!!!

We rode along the waterfront of Rimouski on a dedicated bike path. Owen Sound, you sure could learn something about cleaning up your waterfront! By 11:30 we were booking into a motel on the east side of Rimouski. No nothing was wrong, at least nothing abnormal! We had decided yesterday to visit Le Site Historique Maritime de la Point-au-Père. This is the site of Canada's only submarine that has been turned into a museum. The 'Onondaga' was a Canadian Naval Submarine decommissioned in 2000 and brought to Rimouski to sit on shore as a museum. We were able to go through the submarine, a really neat experience. We were also able to go to the top of a 108 foot lighthouse with 128 steps. As well, we watched a film about the sinking of the Empress of Ireland, a Canadian Pacific luxury liner that sank 2 years after the Titanic killing over 1000 people. I guess the Titanic disaster did not teach the luxury liner business very much!

We are staying in the Motel Au Soleil Couchant on the east side of Rimouski. (And yes I have not mentioned that Rimouski is where Sidney Crosby played his junior hockey)!

Daily Distance = 20.04 km. Time on the bikes = 1 hour 17 minutes. Average Speed = 15.39 km. Maximum Speed = 39.29 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gulls, Black Ducks, Loon.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Over 100 km...And We Worked For Every One....

Monday, August 2

Riviere-Du-Loup to Rimouski

Last night we were treated to a great sunset over the St. Lawrence as our room backed onto the river. It also provided a panoramic view of the ferry docking below. Again really tough to take!

On the road today by 7:55. The forecast was for a sunny blue sky with a moderate south west wind. The sunny blue sky worked out but boy were they 'out to lunch' about the wind. We struggled into a north east wind all day. You know meteorologists have to be the only people in the world who can be wrong 50% of the time and keep their jobs. (Well I guess they are on par with 'economists' and 'financial planners')!!! We worked hard today...not one pedal stroke was easy. (Well maybe the downhill where I almost hit 60 km)! The flat riding we have become used to in Quebec abandoned us today to hills some of which were downright 'difficult'. We also only had brief sightings of the St. Lawrence as the road stayed inland behind hills. (I guess those were the ones we were 'playing in' today)!

We have our tents set up in the Camping Motel De L'Anse just east of Rimouski. Sure hope it does not rain as we are on a site shaped like a bowl!!!

Daily Distance = 105.65 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 11 minutes. Average Speed = 17.07 km. Maximum Speed = 58.26 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Fox, Black Backed Gull, Chipping Sparrow, White Throated Sparrow.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Where The River Meets The Ocean...We Think?

Sunday, August 1

St. Jean-Port-Joli to Riviere-Du-Loup

This morning we left our campsite at 7:45. The hill up from the river was a two person push of our bikes, it was that steep. So we were on the road by 8:00! Today’s ride was another amazing one. We were treated to a beautiful blue sun filled sky. Getting really used to this. Hope we do not pay for it!!!

Today's ride took us past some of the most amazing Dairy Operations we have ever seen. Some of the barns were probably up to a 1000 feet long. Even more impressive is how clean they look. No old steel thrown along the side of the buildings like we see in Ontario all the time. Buildings kept well painted and one operation actually had small trees along their barns trimmed up like hedges. Quite impressive! It appears that the Quebec Dairy Producers are doing okay!

Where the river meets the Ocean...we think? It has become very obvious that the river is now under the influence of the Atlantic Ocean. The tides have become very obvious as the water levels at our campground last night definitely changed before our eyes. Yeh! We are at the Ocean...not!!!

We are staying at the Motel "Au Vieux Fanal" in Riviere-Du-Loup. (Sound familiar Cindy)? The long weekend has come back to haunt us again as the 2 campgrounds were both full. We could have had a piece of grass without a picnic table. So we chose a motel. I guess we are now really 'fair weather campers'!

Daily Distance = 96.45 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 29 minutes. Average Speed = 17.58 km. Maximum Speed = 50.97 km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Heron, Goldfinch.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Cyclists By The Dozen....

Saturday, July 31

Beaumont to St.-Jean-Port-Joli

On the road by 7:55...a miracle!!! The sun shone today and you know I really am getting used to saying that. It beats the heck out of the first half of our adventure. Today's ride seemed like it should be an easy one but for some of us, especially me, it was anything but. It was just one of those days when every peddle stroke was a major effort. Small grades seemed like major climbs, the 'butt' was uncomfortable, the cracks on the shoulder seemed like six inch canyons, and to add 'insult to injury' I was stung by a bee on the back of the neck. Quite a day! On the other hand the scenery once again made up for all the lousy stuff. Dairy farms lined the river and again corn fields and soybean fields dominated the landscape. The St Lawrence gave us many amazing views today including ski hills on the north side. Eric was a little disappointed at the lack of Cargo Ships.

We are staying at the Camping de La Demi-Lieue 4 km east of St.-Jean-Port-Joli. Our campsite is on the banks of the St. Lawrence but on the side of a hill making the setting up of the 2 tents a 'bit' challenging. I suspect the whole day is going to made worth while by the sunset we are going to be treated to over the river.

Daily Distance = 87.63 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 8 minutes. Average Speed = 17.04 km. Maximum Speed = 41.41 km. Wildlife Sightings = Cormorants, Chipping Sparrows.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. It continues to amaze us at how many people are out cycling in Quebec. Ontario people could learn something from the Quebecois about being active!

Hitting 6000 In Style....

Friday, July 30

On the road by 8:30 today to a cloudy sky despite the forecast of sun. Jerome entertained us last night and continued it again this morning while packing up our gear. The ride into Quebec City was made much easier as all we had to do was follow Jerome. His knowledge of the city made it an easy ride to the train station. We then said goodbye to him as he was heading up into the upper city to stay in a hostel. Sue and I were familiar enough with the lower city to easily navigate ourselves around.

Hitting 6000 km for our trip was made extra special because it happened in Old Quebec City as we rode along the waterfront and looked up at The Chateau Frontenac. A one night stay in the Chateau Frontenac ranges from $549 to $2500. Who in the heck stays in these places and what do people do for a living that stay here? Insane!!! We then rode 4 km along the river bank on a bike path and watched ships being loaded. We then walked our bikes through the cobblestone streets of the lower city and had a lunch at a patio-cafe. We then had a quick ride to the ferry dock for our crossing to Levis. A short crossing and then onto a beautiful bike path for our ride out of Levis. The trail followed the old rail line and therefore avoided the major climb away from the river.

We are staying in the Camping Motel Parc Beaumont, a small motel with a huge RV campground behind it. Friday night of the long weekend and as we found, accommodation was hard to come by.

Daily Distance = 57.36 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 50 minutes. Average Speed = 14.92 km. Maximum Speed = 48.92 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Ducks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

And Then There Were Four....

Thursday, July 29

Trois-Riviéres to Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures

On the road by 8:30 to a sunny sky. We had a really nice ride today again along the banks of the St. Lawrence River. Again we rode through nice agricultural land. Dairy farm after dairy farm lined the highway. Silos, some farms with 5 or 6, were common.

The terrain was again mostly flat with good shoulders to ride on. A strong cross wind challenged us at times. As we rode today we came upon a cyclist pulling a 'Bob' trailer. He is cycling from Kingston to Halifax to visit his brother. We rode the rest of the day with him and are camping with him tonight. Jerome is a retired teacher and a real storyteller! Lots of fun. He entertained us all evening with stories of his riding and of his twin brother who is a priest in Peru. He cycles about 10000 km a year and does some marathon running as well.

We are camping in the Canadien-Americana Campground in the town of Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures. We are about 15 km outside of Quebec City.

Daily Distance = 106.39 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 38 minutes. Average Speed = 18.86 km. Maximum Speed = 44.51 km. Wildlife Sightings = Great blue Heron.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. Eric had his second 100 km day today!

Soybeans, Corn, Soybeans, Corn....

Wednesday, July 28

Lanoraie to Trois-Rivières

On the road this morning by 8:00 well rested. Today's ride took us along the Fleuve Saint-Laurent. (How's that for using my limited French skills?). The river really is bigger than any other river we have ever seen. Freighters could be seen regularly heading 'up stream'. We rode past some of the best fields of soybeans and corn we have seen anywhere. The beans were 4 feet high and the corn at least 10 feet in height. I really am unsure if this is normal or if they have just had the 'perfect' year for growing crops. (Maybe it has something to do with the agricultural subsidization that Quebec farmers benefit from)!!! Silos everywhere and numerous dairy farms dotted the landscape. This is obviously one of Quebec's best agricultural regions.

As we rode along the river today we came upon an area that is a 'playground' for para-sailing. Lac Saint Pierre is a shallow area (part of the St. Lawrence) with lots of wind. While stopped for lunch we were treated to quite a show.

We are staying in the Motel Canadien, a small motel that caters to cyclists. It is located on the eastern edge of Trois-Rivières. As the afternoon progressed the sky got darker and darker. Upon learning of the possibility of thunderstorms and the beginning of some rain as we were leaving Trois-Rivières, the motel seemed like the prudent choice over camping in Champlain.

Daily Distance = 93.80 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 3 minutes. Average Speed = 18.57 km. Maximum Speed = 34.81 km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Herons, Goldfinchs, Kestrel.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. We saw more tour cyclists today than any other day of our entire trip!!!

Well Needed Day off.....

Tuesday, July 27

Lanoraie

After 11 days on the road we decided to spend the day on the banks of the St. Lawrence River. There could be worse ways to spend a day of rest. While the laundry was being done, Eric and I played a game involving bean bag tossing for at least 2 hours. We then took a leisurely ride into town to the grocery store and to a 'Frite Wagon' for lunch. Eric is presently having a swim in the campground pool while Sue is having a nap on the picnic table! Tough life on the road!!!

We have been entertained today by large container ships heading both ways on the river. These ships are massive boats with the cargo containers stacked high above the decks. The banks of the river in this area are lined with 'estate' size houses. It would be interesting to know if these are just 'summer homes'. People really do have 'too much' money, or more likely, the banks 'lend out' way too much.

Daily Distance =15.82 km . Time on the bikes =52 minutes . Average Speed = 18.20 km. Maximum Speed = 32.53 km. Wildlife sightings = black squirrels.

Kevin =3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. While picking up supper at the local supermarket I met 2 more Cross Canada Cyclists who are our age and left Vancouver May 1. Hard to imagine cyclists slower than us! Now I will tell you the reason. He has a really bad knee so they are only able to ride when his knee allows it. He could hardly walk and the knee was visibly swollen. Hope they can continue and finish their dream.

Days Like Today Make You Forget All About The 'Crappy' Ones....

Monday, July 26

Saint-Jerome to Lanoraie

We were on the road by 8:40 after a full breakfast in the Hotel. We rode Saint-Jerome's bike path down to Hwy 158 and then turned east to continue our route around Montreal. Hwy 158 led us through really productive farmland. The sandy soil is obviously conducive to growing vegetables and I do not mean for market gardening. Carrots, beets, potatoes, asparagus, corn, cabbage, tomatoes, strawberries, and raspberries. (A greenhouse operation growing strawberries obviously has done OK! A 'massive' house has been built beside it with a 'private helicopter' in residence!) Dairy farms, sod farms, pork barns, and chicken barns dotted the landscape as well. The area grows 'abnormally' tall corn. While stopped for a washroom break we realized that the corn was at least 4 feet taller than Eric...6'1" + 4' = 10 feet. Must be all the fertilizer they spread!!!

Eric's comment part way through the day best sums up our ride today. "This is my favourite ride since I joined you guys". That says it all. A 'cross-tail wind', limited traffic, nice countryside, a town every 20 km, and sunshine made up our day. It really did make us forget about all the 'crappy' days on this adventure.

Today we managed to get to the St. Lawrence River. It is odd but this for me is 'right up there' with getting through the mountains of British Columbia. We are camping at the Chez Denise Campground outside of Lanoraie. It is a small campground right on the banks of the St. Lawrence.

Daily Distance = 96.34 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 10 minutes. Average Speed = 18.62 km. Maximum Speed = 51.93 km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Herons, Cormorants.

P.S. We have decided to take a day off tomorrow to regenerate ourselves! (I have been told 'I' need it.)

Kevin=3, Sue=0, Eric=1

A Long Night....

Sunday, July 25

Pointe-au-Chene to Saint-Jerome

A long, long, long night. As cyclists we are ready to 'hit the hay' by 9:30 but last night that proved to be impossible. The 'live' band played late into the night. Lots of 'Doors' music, my era, but Jim Morrison the lead singer was 'not'! It seemed like most of the night was spent with people wandering by the tent and yelling. Sleep was impossible... Unless you were Eric!

On the road by 8:15 to a big black sky and a 'quiet' campground. Our ride today took us through agricultural land as we headed north of Montreal. Soybeans and corn dominated the cropland while poultry (both chicken and ducks) was the dominant livestock. For the most part we continued to have a good biking shoulder and flat terrain. The traffic was surprisingly heavy for a Sunday and we were surprised by how 'vibrant' a town Lachute was with numerous outdoor cafes busy at 10:00 a.m.

We decided to cut our day shorter than we planned. Sue's sore knees, Eric's quietness, and so I am told my 'testiness' (I cannot believe that) means we needed to find a Motel early in the afternoon so we could rest up both 'physically' and 'mentally'! We are staying at the Best Western in Saint-Jerome. As we entered Saint Jerome it became very obvious that an awful lot of people are cyclists. The old rail yard that is now a park had hundreds of cyclists in it.

Daily Distance = 69.60 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 56 minutes. Average Speed = 17.67 km. Maximum Speed = 33.07 km. Wildlife Sightings = Kestrel, Marsh Hawk, Coopers Hawk, Great Blue Heron.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Hi Ho, Hi Ho, It's Off to Quebec We Go....Finally!!!

Saturday, July 24

Orleans to Point-au-Chene

After a quiet evening and a great sleep we were on the road by 8:10. Thanks again, Maura for opening your house to 'total strangers'. Another 5 km of bike trail. And then onto Old Montreal Road for our ride to Cumberland and the ferry over to Quebec. When we rode down to the ferry we were allowed to ride right on and it took off before we were even off of our bikes. The cost...an astronomical 2 bucks each!

It is hard to believe that we are finally out of Ontario. What a 'huge' province especially to cross on bicycles. Five full weeks to cross it. I am not sad to see it behind us. A summary of it is almost impossible but suffice it to say that it threw a whole bunch of varied experiences at us. Now it is time for Eric to 'shine' with his French language skills.

The rest of the day was spent riding Hwy 148, which has a dedicated shoulder for cyclists. What a pleasure after much of Ontario and Manitoba. We made a stop at the Chateau Montebello, a huge log Hotel that you would have to 'mortgage the house' to stay at. It is so large that you could not get 1\4 of it in a photograph! An information stop, an ice cream stop, a grocery stop and a chat with a cyclist riding a 'recumbent tricycle' made for a long stay in Montebello.

We are staying at the La Place Rouge, a small campground that actually was full but gave us a 'piece of grass' to set up our tents on. That is what happens when you arrive on Christmas Eve in Quebec. At least that is the reason for a huge party tonight with live music in the campground. Sleep might be hard to come by! Anything for a party!

Daily Distance = 83.35 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 39 minutes. Average Speed = 17.94 km. Maximum Speed = 44. 93 km. Wildlife Sightings = Eastern Kingbirds, Dairy Herds.

Kevin = 3, Sue =0, Eric = 1 1\2 "really close to a complete flop".

If Only All Cities Had Bike Paths....

Friday, July 23

Stittsville to Orleans

We were treated to a two part dinner last night. We had barbecued salmon at 5:30 followed by steak at 9:30. It was certainly our own fault if anyone went to bed hungry and as you can imagine no-one did! By 7:30 am we were 'fuelling up' again with bacon and pancakes (with 'real' maple syrup), muffins and coffee. Thanks again to Lori and Lionel. Our stay at your B+B was greatly appreciated. (And the dinner was not bad either)! And thanks Simon for letting me be part of your 'batting' practice last night. It was fun!

We were off by 8:30 with 'muffins' in our bags for treats on the road. Ottawa is such a dream for cyclists. We jumped on the Trans Canada Trail in Stittsville (after some minor trouble finding it...all our own fault) and rode a combination of old rail trail (hard packed gravel) and paved bike trail all the way to the Rideau Canal beside the Parliament Buildings. What a pleasure to not have to ride with traffic.

Upon arriving at the canal we were able to watch boats being lowered through the lock system. Everything was 'manually' operated to let the water through and to open the 'gates'.

A quick picture taking session at Parliament Hill and a chat with a fellow Cross Canada Cyclist going west to east but much quicker than us as he had left from Victoria one month 'after' us. Oh to be young!

So now we are 'three' again. Sadly, Patrik and Taryn had to leave us today to return home. Thanks guys for being a part of our adventure. We had fun and I hope you did too!

We left the downtown of Ottawa by way of Sussex Drive passing many of the foreign embassies along the way. Yes, Eric got to see the Prime Minister's Residence! We then got onto the bike path and rode all the way to Orleans. While stopped and looking at our maps and obviously looking 'lost', we had two cyclists stop to ask if we needed help. While talking they asked us where we were staying tonight and we said that we were not sure. We were promptly offered one of their homes for the night. Thank you Maura for opening your house to 'total strangers'. Your hospitality is amazing!

Daily Distance = 54.54 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 27 minutes. Average Speed = 15.76 km. Maximum Speed = 36.08 km. Wildlife Sightings = Groundhogs, Cardinal, Mallard, Black Ducks, Canada Geese, Coopers Hawk.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1, Taryn = 0, Patrik = 0.

P.S. Tomorrow we will finally leave Ontario!!!

The Ottawa River is Really Big....

Thursday, July 22

Renfrew to Stittsville

On the road by 8:10 to a totally blue sky and 'riders' eager not to ride on Hwy 17. (Seems like getting away by 8;00 is really difficult....it might be the result of the crew 'rebelling' against my timeframe!).

We took the 'River Road' from Renfrew to Arnprior roday, County Rd #1. What a beautiful ride! The Ottawa River is really big!!! Far bigger than we remembered. It was more like following a lake with islands and homes lining the shoreline. Beats the heck out of riding in traffic.

After consulting the tourist information place in Arnprior (the local antique dealer), we set off on county roads for a leisurely ride to Stittsville. Yes, I can imagine people are going "Where the heck is Stittsville?". Well, it is part of Greater Ottawa. Believe it or not we are almost out of Ontario! Can hardly wait!!

We are staying at Lori, Lionel, Sebastien, Simon and Natalie's place. Lori and and Lionel are Eric's Aunt and Uncle. We are being treated 'royally' and have literally taken over the house! Thanks guys, we really appreciate it!

Daily Distance = 82.87 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 7 minutes. Average speed = 20.10 km. Maximum speed = 59.34 km. Wildlife settings = Mallards, Turkey Vulture, Eastern Kingbird.

Kevin = 3 1/2 "Way too close for comfort!" Sue = 0, Eric = 1, Taryn = 0, Patrik = 0

Downhill All the Way....

Wednesday, July 21

Denbigh to Renfrew

After a really nice dinner in the Swiss Inn Restaurant we had an early night. I guess that is the result of yesterday's hill climbing!

On the road by 7:45 to a partly sunny sky and the beginning of an easy ride. The highway was smooth with very little traffic and wound its way 'down' through a valley. The key word today was 'down'. It seemed like the ride was 'downhill all the way' to Renfrew. The consensus among all of us was that this was our reward for yesterday!

Today's downhills produced the top speed for the trip, over 70 km/hr. Some people might think this seems awfully fast and maybe even stupid. You would be right!!! But what a rush!!!

Today's ride took us through an area of marginal farmland dominated by old log barns with many of them still in use. We will have to drive this route sometime in the future and photograph all of the log buildings. As we got closer to Renfrew we came into 'good looking' farmland and lots of silos.

Upon arriving in Renfrew we were helped out by 2 different individuals in our search for our campground. One even gave us a map from her car and advice on a really nice route to Ottawa tomorrow.

We are camping in the KOA Campground west of Renfrew. It is just off highway 17, the TransCanada. There was just something wrong with the idea of getting to Renfrew and then heading towards Pembroke when we want to go to Ottawa. What the hell, what's 8 km out of our way?

Daily Distance = 80.66 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 7 minutes. Average speed = 19.55 km. Maximum speed = 71.44 km. Wildlife sightings = Red Breasted Nuthatch, Red Squirrel.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1 + "Thank God Patrik was there to grab onto!", Taryn = 1/2 "My bike fell down, but I didn't!", Patrik = 1/2 "Oops, there goes my bike!"

Hills, Hills, and More Hills....and then THE DENBIGH HILL.....

Tuesday, July 20

Bancroft to Denbigh

On the road today by 7:55 to a sunny sky and ready for our climbing. We had planned a shorter day and it is a darn good thing we did. The day was definitely challenging as we climbed through the rock and trees along Hwy 28 away from Bancroft. Every once in a while farmland would appear, not very good, but farmland just the same. I cannot imagine what it must have been like 150 years ago to get your land grant from the crown, somehow get to your property and find nothing but rock. Those first few winters must have been pretty tough.

After getting a lecture from a local resident about our choice of where we were taking a roadside rest (and if you can believe it I did not tell her what I thought) we had a fun downhill run that made us nervous about what was coming ahead. Sure enough, the downhill was followed by 'a hill', not just any hill, but a 12% grade that seemed to go on forever and ever. Not what we wanted after 55 km of riding. The young crew members powered up the hill while us more 'seasoned' riders went for a 'stroll'.

We are staying at the Swiss Inn and Motel in Denbigh. We could not resist the opportunity with Patrik along! The reality is we had no other choices for accommodation in this area!

Daily Distance = 65.87 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 3 minutes. Average speed = 16.23 km. Maximum speed = 62.25 km. Wildlife sightings = Turkey Vulture, Great Blue Heron.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1, Taryn = 0, Patrik = 0

P.S. As we took a break in the village of Denbigh we were stopped in front of a fire hall, a 'volunteer fire hall'. No big deal! However, when we looked behind us we realized that the building directly across from the fire hall was burned to the ground. The people of this area might not feel overly good about the abilities of their fire fighters!!!