"Sometimes, the path forward begins with a journey back"...

Monday, August 30

Barachois Pond Provincial Park to Corner Brook

Awoke to an overcast sky this morning. Good part about that is that there was no 'dew' unlike the soaked fly we had to pack away yesterday. On the bikes by 8:00. Remember that hill in the campground I talked about yesterday, well it was a 'beauty'. It took almost 20 minutes to climb the 2 km to the highway. That maybe should have been a 'warning' of what was to come. Today was all about climbing. Long gradual hills kept coming at us. It is funny how when you are riding a bicycle it seems like you climb all day and end up right back down at the Ocean. I do not understand how that can be!!! To add to our difficulties we faced a strong head wind for the last 30 km. But the sun came out and it was a beautiful day.

Last night we received an email from a fellow Cross Canada Cyclist that made us begin to think about what this adventure 'truly' means to us and how we can share 'a small piece' of it with others. It has also made us think about 'enjoying' Newfoundland and not getting caught up in the end goal, St. Johns. Thanks Brian for sharing those words with us. Our perspective has changed overnight.

Today's ride also got us thinking about the scenery of Newfoundland. "Sometimes the path forward begins with a journey back". At times today it was like we were back in BC. at the beginning of this journey. If you let your mind wander (and while climbing there is lots of time for that) you could imagine these climbs today were actually in BC. No there are no 27 km climbs to a pass but the plateau that we rode onto today made us feel like we were at the top of the world just like BC. (Even though we were 3000 metres lower than some of the passes in BC).

We are in the Comfort Inn in Corner Brook. Our room overlooks the bizarre layout of a hill town and overlooks the Ocean. All the hills and my 'tender' knee made us shorten our day.

Daily Distance = 73.28 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 12 minutes. Average Speed = 14.15 km. Maximum Speed = 65.54 km (guess it was not all uphill)! Wildlife Sightings = White Throated Sparrow, Junco, red squirrel.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

Up and Down Newfoundland's West Side....

Sunday, August 29

Crabbe River to Barachois Pond Provincial Park

The 'failure' of my internal alarm clock caused us to get off to a late start. With the temperature hovering around 6 degrees we set off at 8:20.

Today was all about climbing long gradual hills followed by just as many 'swooping' downhills. The scenery remained the same with 'peaks' in the distance and small 'stunted' trees along the sides of the road. Every once in a while we would get a view of the ocean. The sunshine and very little wind made the temperature climb to about 20 degrees but it seemed warmer. Perfect conditions for a 'leisurely' ride...well maybe not a 'leisurely' one but at least a 'nice' one.

The Trans Canada through Newfoundland has been good to cycle on. A 4 foot shoulder and almost 'no' traffic has made us 'happy bikers'. We were just getting used to that when our 'serenity' was interupted by a 'rumble' strip. Whoever put this one on must have been 'into the sauce'. It wandered all over the shoulder. The strip would be 1 foot off of the white line and 1 1/2 feet wide leaving very little for us to ride on. We are told we will deal with this off and on for all of Newfoundland. OH GOODY!!!

We are camping at Barachois Pond Provincial Park. We are in the 'day use' area because these sites are much more private and quiet. The lady at the gate told us that they "don't let 'locals' camp here" but keep it for cyclists and oversized rigs. Our site is on Barachois Pond nestled under Barachois Mountain ( a stunning rock face hill). Quite a nice little site but our climb out of here tomorrow morning (1.8 km of extreme uphill) to the highway will be a real challenge!!!

Daily Distance = 61.03 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 44 minutes. Average Speed = 16.33 km. Maximum Speed = 53.42 km. Wildlife Sightings = Junco, red squirrel, Moose tracks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

"And then you find yourself seemingly in the middle of nowhere, and oddly enough, it is exactly where you want to be."

Saturday, August 28

Channel-Port Aux Basques to Crabbe River

On the road by 7:50 (did you catch that Eric?). The sun was shining despite what the weather channel said. I am beginning to put less and less faith in meteorologists! But, I will not complain this time about them being wrong!

Today was truly a 'magnificent' ride. With the sun shining and very little wind, we wound our way through the hills heading northward into Newfoundland. We had been fearing this part of our ride because we knew of the 'Wreckhouse' area of the TransCanada from our previous visit. The Wreckhouse area is famous for its winds. And I mean winds! When Newfoundland had a railway (narrow gauge track) the winds were known to 'flip' railcars in this area. So now you know why we were fearing it. At about 65 km we were either getting tired or the hills were getting steeper because the rest of the day was definitely more challenging. I suspect both were happening.

We are camping in the middle of nowhere. It is a small private campground called Crabbe River R.V. And Trailer Park. We believe it used to be a Provincial Park but it is no longer. Our site is not really a site. We are in the 'kids' playground, but oddly enough, it is exactly where we want to be, the middle of nowhere!

Daily Distance = 98.78 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 47 minutes. Average Speed = 17.07 km. Maximum Speed = 59.34 km.

Wildlife sightings = goldfinches, rabbit, red squirrel, chipmunk, Yellow Rumped Warbler

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0

Thank You, Eric...And Now We Are 2....

Friday, August 27

North Sydney to Port Aux Basque, Newfoundland

Up and at it this morning by the 'insane' hour of 5:00 so we could say 'goodbye' to everyone before leaving for the ferry. By 6:50 we were waiting in the 'staging lanes' with the 'big boys', some Harley Davidson riders. One asked where we had come from and when we said Vancouver his reaction was "holy shit". We boarded the ferry and are presently on our way to our 10th and final province, Newfoundland.

As we were leaving North Sydney this morning we were experiencing 'butterflies' as we both seem to be somewhat nervous about heading off again on our own. It was fun to be tourists for the past 3 days and made extra special by being able to spend some time with Cindy and Andy, Collin, Cara and Helen. Oh yes and I cannot forget 'Eric'. Thank you Eric for being such a 'big' part of 'our' adventure. I hope that 'your' adventure was memorable and that you will cherish some of the moments for years to come. We also were able to have a visit with friends from London, Teri, Ian, Alex and Meagan. It was quite a surprise for us to get your call and great to have a visit in Cape Breton of all places!

Nova Scotia...lousy drivers but a great place to visit. About the drivers...we had more 'stupid' drivers in Nova Scotia than anywhere else so far on this trip. From the early experience on a 'traffic circle' where we were 'swore at' once and 'cut off' twice to the numerous 'clowns' who passed cars while meeting us, Nova Scotia drivers 'stink'!!! Making up for the drivers, however, was the incredible scenery we experienced particularily on Cape Breton. The Cabot Trail can be matched for 'sheer beauty' by very few places that we have ever visited. Louisbourg and the Miner's Museum should be experienced by anyone who possibly can. The Baddeck area is a 'sail boaters' paradise and the home of the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, another worthwhile destination.

Our ferry ride turned out to be a lot longer than was scheduled so our arrival late in the day made us opt for 'another' motel stay. We are in the St. Christopher's Hotel in Port Aux Basques and getting ourselves mentally prepared for our push across Newfoundland.

Daily Distance = A 'Whopping' 8.60 km plus a 7 1/2 hour ferry ride. Time on the bikes = 38 minutes. Average Speed = 13.53 km. Maximum Speed = 36.75 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Ducks, Cormorants.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

The Miner's Museum

Thursday, August 26

We visited the Miner's Museum in Glace Bay today. In 1967, as a Centennial Project, the Miner's Association in conjunction with the Nova Scotia government built the museum as a living tribute to coal mining in the Sydney area. We were able to go into a mine and out under the ocean. The mine was as low as 4 feet at times and dripping water. The tour was led by a former coal miner who worked underground for over 30 years. He knew his stuff and told stories of many of his underground experiences. The last coal mine closed in 1999 and this area has suffered economically ever since. Anyone travelling in the area should make this a destination. It is truly worth the stop.

We are off to catch the ferry tomorrow morning to Newfoundland. Province # 9 down...here we come # 10.

Cabot Trail...Revisited....

Wednesday, August 25

Today consisted of a trip around the Cabot Trail by car. And trust me am I ever glad we did not cycle it! Between the construction, the lack of shoulders, the traffic and all the 'amazing hills', it would have been 'really tough'. A few 'road bikers' were out and we saw 2 'recumbents' struggling to climb one of the many hills. You know it is the 3rd time we have driven the Cabot Trail and we have not tired of the incredible views. The only way I would ever consider a bicycle ride around it would be 'without gear'. And we will leave that for another time...possibly...maybe with 'my next wife'!!!

Daily Distance = The Bikes Once Again Never Moved.

Fortress of Louisbourg

Tuesday , August 24

We spent today visiting the Fortress of Loiusbourg. It is a 'fascinating' re-creation of 'a day in the life of the fortress in 1744'. People in period costume explain how Louisbourg had become France's most important 'stronghold' and 'seaport'. It was based on a thriving 'cod' industry and was a fortified community. It was twice defeated by the British. The second time the fortifications were destroyed.

Louisbourg was re-created as a 'make work project' for the laid off coal miners of Cape Breton. Over a 20 year period 1\5 of the town was rebuilt on the very spots that they had stood. It truly is a special place to visit! More archeological digs continue on the rest of the site.

Daily Distance = 'The Bikes Never Moved'.

A Day of Doing Nothing...And The Crew Arrives....

Monday, August 23

North Sydney

Today was a day off to relax, do laundry (how exciting!) and some grocery shopping (how exciting!). We have a cottage rented for the next 4 nights and a car rented so we can 'truly' be tourists. A trip around the Cabot Trail, a visit to Louisbourg, and maybe a boat outing is how we plan to spend our days off.

The crew has arrived to pick up Eric so we now have a 'full' cottage.

Daily Distance = 5.75 km. Time On The Bike = 27 minutes. Average Speed = 12.52 km. Maximum Speed = 28.86 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Kellys' 14 Kilometres

Sunday, August 22

Baddeck to North Sydney

On the road by 7:58 'with only one moon in the sky'. It looked like a beautiful day for a ride. A moderate temperature with sunshine, a few clouds, and some small hills greeted us. By 8:30 we had all of our rain gear on and got soaked for the first of 4 times on the day.

We climbed 7 km up Kellys Mountain at a low grade and rolled down the other side at high speeds before having to slow down for the bridge at the bottom. It was my first ever mountain and I have to applaud the 'troopers' that went through the mountain passes out west. This was just a small one and must have paled in comparison.

Tonight we are staying in The Clansman Motel just minutes from North Sydney and the Newfoundland Ferry. We have been upgraded from our motel room to the cottage on site that we will be staying in for the next 4 days to tour Cape Breton "BY CAR".

Daily Distance = 61.98 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 9 minutes 35 seconds. Average Speed = 14.90 km. Maximum Speed = 54.47 km. Wildlife Sightings = Bald Eagle, Black Backed Gull, Goldfinch, Cormorants.

A special Thanks to Sue and Kevin for allowing me to be part of their wonderful adventure.

Written by Eric

History and Big Puddles....

Saturday, August 21

Baddeck

Today we were able to take our time and enjoy '2' coffees, something we have rarely been able to do. After riding into Baddeck we enjoyed a second breakfast. My this journey is a tough one!

We enjoyed a 'history lesson' today as we visited the Alexander Graham Bell Museum. We knew of his work to invent the telephone but we were unaware of all the other things that he worked on in his life...genetic study of sheep, airplane development, hydrofoil development, phonograph development, work in teaching the deaf, x-ray development. You know his life was made a lot easier when he married 'Mable' a former deaf student of his who to say the least was 'loaded'. Combined with his 'fortune from the Bell Telephone Company, life got a lot easier. He built a castle in Baddeck that later in life became the headquarters for his airplane and hydrofoil experimentation. The other thing that became apparent was that he 'hired' and 'housed' experts to develop his ideas. He was an 'ideas guy' and had the money to hire expertise and a wife to manage his financial affairs.

Now for the 'big puddles' part...when we began to ride back to our campground it began to rain and I do not mean a light rain. It absolutely poured. Our tents handled the rain OK but you know they did not handle the 'big puddle' of water that they were sitting in. The result was we were forced to move to a motel in Baddeck, The Cabot Trail Motel, so we could begin to dry our sleeping pads, sleeping bags, etc. We have the humidity level in the room 'through the roof' to say the least. And we are not even bothering to try to dry our tents. THE ADVENTURE CONTINUES!!!

Daily Distance = 32.90 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 30 minutes. Average Speed = 13.12 km. Maximum Speed = 42.52 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Squirrel, Grey cheeked Thrush, Chipmunk.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

A Good Day For A Ride....

Friday, August 20

Port Hastings to Baddeck

On the road this morning by 7:40. I actually looked to see if there were '2 moons in the sky' but it was too cloudy to see. I am sure that there must have been!!!

Today's ride was all about 'gradual climbing' through Cape Breton's hills. (I know we are not in the 'truly' hilly area of Cape Breton...we are keeping that for our 'bicycle free' days in North Sydney). We travelled through re-forested land today and even saw some farmland, using the term very loosely! After one of our many uphills followed by a downhill we caught our first glimpse of Bras d' Or Lake, Cape Breton's 'inland sea' as one advertisement called it. Soon it became our constant companion giving us the feeling that we were back in Northern Ontario following Lake Superior. (You know I am kind of glad 'we are where we are' and not back in Northern Ontario)!

As we sat down to eat lunch at a War Memorial Park we had another cyclist join us for lunch. One of the main things we had was a 'wild blueberry pie' purchased across the road. (And oh it was good). The cyclist is a ESL teacher from New York City and has cycled north and is continuing to Newfoundland. He seemed like a 'laid back' kind of guy until he got on his bike and 'left us in his dust'! We also came upon a tandem bike and while riding chatted with them. They were an older couple who had just completed the Cabot Trail and when I said we had chosen not to ride it, They said "good choice".

We are camping just outside of Baddeck in the Adventures East Campground, a small campground with a pool and laundry facilities. (Doing laundry really has become a routine that is a necessary evil). Tomorrow we are going to 'play tourist' again and visit the Alexander Graham Bell Museum in Baddeck.

Daily Distance = 80.47 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 56 minutes. Average Speed = 16.30 km. Maximum Speed = 56.19 km. Wildlife Sightings = Bald Eagle, Red Tailed Hawk, Marsh Hawk, Yellow Legs, Blue Jay, Cedar Waxwing, Kingfisher, Garter Snake.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Hills...Nova Scotia Style....

Thursday, August 19

Antigonish to Port Hastings

Last night we spent our evening walking around the campus of St. Francis Xavier University and watched some football players running drills and watched a soccer practice. The university only has 2700 students but is known for its sports.

On the road by 8:20 but stopped again 5 minutes later for a grocery stop. On the road for real by 8:50. Today's ride took us through lots of forest land and hills. Too much traffic and at times not much shoulder made riding a challenge at times. Did I mention the word hills??? Nova Scotia sure is hilly! We climbed numerous long gradual grades one of which was over 4 km long. (And we have just got to Cape Breton...wonder what tomorrow will bring)???

As we crossed the Canso Causeway we met a train, watched a freighter being loaded with gravel and saw the 'swing bridge' open to let a sailboat through.

We are staying at the Hearth and Stone Inn between Port Hastings and Port Hawkesbury. Our room overlooks the Strait of Canso and we watched the freighter pull out and head off. (Did not know that we exported gravel from Canada)???

Daily Distance = 57.36 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 39 minutes. Average Speed = 15.66 km. Maximum Speed = 50.05 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Tailed Hawk, Bald Eagle, Goldfinch, Black Backed Gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

A Day On The TCH....

Wednesday, August 18

New Glasgow to Antigonish

On the road by 8:10 as far as the grocery store which was the wrong direction for our ride. Stocked up and on the road 'for real' by 8:55. Today's ride took us entirely on the Trans Canada. It was quite a nice ride despite the heat and we benefited from a decent tail wind. (Nice after yesterday)!!!

The scenery was quite nice with trees of every shade of green imaginable. We had numerous long gradual climbs followed by some long downhills. We rode through a beautiful section of countryside where we wound our way through hills along a stream. As picturesque as we have seen for a while.

We are camping in Antigonish at Whiddens Campground and Cottages in the downtown of the city.

P.S. Nova Scotia drivers are vying for the 'title of most unfriendly to cyclists'. Yesterday we had a couple of 'boneheaded' moves as we were proceeding around a traffic circle and again today we had someone pass while meeting us. I guess we are 'invisible' in Nova Scotian's eyes. Hope that improves!!!

Daily Distance = 64.03 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 51 minutes. Average Speed = 16.56 km. Maximum Speed = 56.19 km. Wildlife Sightings = Chickadees.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Nova Scotia We Are Here....

Tuesday, August 17

Wood Islands to New Glasgow

A couple of rainstorms during the night left our campground soggy but our tents were able to dry because of the strong south winds off of the water. Packed up and on our way to the ferry dock by 8:05. By 8:30 we were wandering around the ferry dock waiting for our ferry to take us from PEI to our 9th province, Nova Scotia.

A 75 minute ferry ride was followed by a tough 8 km ride to the information place in Pictou.

After lunch the real 'slogging' began. We faced a 20 km south wind with gusts of 35 km (according to the Weather Channel) all the way to the Trans Canada. At times we were 'crawling' at speeds under 10 km. And did I mention that this part of Nova Scotia was not flat? As the guy at the information place said "nowhere in Nova Scotia is there a flat road". Doesn't that sound promising? And about the information place...this was the friendliest, most knowledgeable, best serviced Provincial Information place we have come across in our whole adventure. They even booked us a motel for tonight 'free of charge'!

We had another short day as we are planning our 'attack' of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton. (This really is 'kicking the '#@+$' out of our daily average)!!!

Daily Distance = 33.00 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 27 minutes. Average Speed = 13.38 km. Maximum Speed = 46.69 km. Wildlife Sightings = Marsh Hawk, Red Tailed Hawk, Osprey, Cormorants, Bald Eagle, Great Blue Heron, Black Ducks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

On The Road Again....

On the road by 8:05 with 'another' beautiful blue sky. Today's ride took us on the Trans Canada Highway once again through some more of PEI's cropland and especially potatoes. As we got closer to the east end of the island the agricultural land became much poorer as more and more trees dominated the landscape. The ride was not flat with many long 'grades' to climb.

PEI...A Summer Vacation Paradise! PEI is made for tourists. It has beautiful beaches, cities with developed waterfronts, and of course 'Anne of Green Gables' to attract 1000's of visitors. The downside is that accommodation, though plentiful, is hard to come by when cycling. Reservations are almost a necessity. PEI has varied agriculture of course dominated by potatoes. With a population of only 132,000 it is hard to believe it is its own province! Protective they are, however, with a law that prohibits any individual or corporation from owning more than 2000 acres! As for cycling on the island, it is not as easy as one might think. Hills dominate the island and coupled with shoulderless highways (except the Trans Canada) makes cycling a challenge

We are camping at Northumberland Provincial Park 2 km from the ferry terminal. Our site is right on the ocean overlooking the ferry terminal and in the distance can be seen our 9th province, Nova Scotia!!!

Daily Distance = 66.92 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 7 minutes. Average Speed = 16.20 km. Maximum Speed = 36.41km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Heron, Black Duck, Marsh Hawk, White Crowned Sparrow, Cedar Waxwing, Black Backed Gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. Eric reached the 3000 km mark today for his ride!!!

A Canadian History Lesson....

Sunday, August 15

Charlottetown

A dinner at an Irish Pub complete with some 'Irish Ale' followed by a show was a nice way of spending our first evening in Charlottetown. And I believe for only the second time on this adventure we were completely 'off of our bikes' today.

We visited Province House National Historic Site of Canada, PEI's present day legislature, and the site of the 1864 Charlottetown Conference, the meetings that set the 'blueprint' for the formation of Canada in 1867. We toured the old historic streets of Charlottetown and also Founders Hall. Founders Hall is a 'walk through time' tracing the formation of Canada from 1864 and concluding with the formation of Nunavut in 1999...A Canadian History Lesson!

We decided to stay at our motel for an extra day so we did not have to ride our bikes back into the city to be 'tourists'.

Off To Charlottetown....

Saturday, August 14

New Glasgow to Charlottetown

Last night's New Glasgow Lobster Supper can only be described as 'superb'. Our campground hosts took us for a quick tour up into the 'hills' above New Glasgow to a golf course with "the best views in PEI" (at least that is what our host told us) before dropping us at the dinner first course, seafood chowder (as much as you could eat), rolls (as much as you could eat), and mussels (as many as you could eat and served in a pail). Second course, a salad. Third course, lobster or salmon. Fourth course, 5 kinds of pie or strawberry shortcake (as many pieces as you wanted). Do you think we tried our darndest to get our money's worth??? As a bonus while having our pie, a hot air balloon was launched from the lawn outside of our window. Up to the gift shop to get them to phone our hosts and we were picked up and given a 2nd tour of the area by our hosts.

Before leaving the campground this morning we talked to a fellow Cross Canada cyclist who along with 2 other guys left Vancouver May 17 and reached Lunenburg, their final destination by July 24. His wife has now joined him and they are cycling PEI's Confederation Trail (rail trail that crosses PEI) before returning home to Ontario. I also must mention that of all the campgrounds we have stayed in The New Glasgow Highlands Campground is 'hands down' the friendliest and cleanest. Any one travelling in PEI should make a stop here!

Now for the ride...PEI again showed us it is 'not' flat. Many climbs were necessary to get ourselves to the Confederation Trail and then the rail trail down into Charlottetown. We are staying at the Quality Inn in the downtown area. We are going to 'The Theatre' again to 'get some culture' for our 15 year old friend!

Daily Distance = 31.23 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 16 minutes. Average Speed = 13.74 km. Maximum Speed = 50.97 km. Wildlife Sightings = Junco, Black Duck, Bald Eagle, Chipmunk.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Crossing The Island...Sounds Easy...Not Particularily....

Friday, August 13

Summerside to New Glasgow

Last nights show of Highland dancing, piping and drumming was quite entertaining and I believe even Eric would have to agree. On the road by 7:55, it must have been 'A Miracle'! Our ride north east away from Summerside was similar to yesterday's ride, at least in the beginning. Again we went through potato country and saw numerous farmers harvesting wheat.

We came upon another bakeshop today, in Kensington, that provided us with some mid morning 'sweets' and will provide us with some evening 'treats' as well. If people only new how lousy Tim Horton's donuts are compared to these small bakery’s!

As we rode towards Cavendish today we went past one of the largest factories that we have seen on our trip. Cavendish Farms, the 'French Fry' company has two plants across the road from each other. Both were massive buildings and we suspect a major employer of the area.

We stopped at the L.M. Montgomery National Historic Site, Green Gables, to tour a re-creation of where Lucy Maude Montgomery grew up and was inspired to write her famous novels. As we rode away from Cavendish, the hills of PEI appeared in their 'full glory'. Our relaxing ride was over. The climbing really began. Some long, steep hills faced as we headed away from Cavendish to our destination, The New Glasgow Highlands Campground. I guess the name should have been a clue as to what we were about to face. We have a small cabin for the night and the owners are going to take us to the New Glasgow Lobster Supper. These suppers have been served daily since 1958. I think they may have this down to a science!

Daily Distance =50.12 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 9 minutes. Average Speed = 15.89 km. Maximum Speed = 64.94 km. Wildlife Sightings = Yellowlegs, Chipmunks, Red Eyed Vireo, Yellow Rumped Warbler, Great Blue Heron, Black Ducks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. Today we passed 7000 km for our adventure!!!

Being A Tourist....

Thursday, August 12

Confederation Bridge to Summerside

On the road by 8:05 this morning with a beautiful blue sky. We mapped out a plan last night to spend 4 days in PEI being tourists. So today's ride was a short one through PEI's countryside. We were greeted with panoramic views of the Confederation Bridge, a truly 'amazing' structure 13 km long. PEI's countryside is simply 'beautiful'. Farmland at its best! Wheat, canola, and of course how could you forget the potatoes. Acres and acres of 'spuds' (30 % of Canadian production comes from PEI). Obviously the 'red' soil is productive. A unique thing we saw today was 'rural milk delivery'. Can you imagine door to door delivery in 2010???

By 10:00 am we were sitting eating nanaimo bars, peanut butter cookies and chocolate macaroons at a bakery in Summerside. Summerside was our destination for the day and we spent our time walking the boardwalk along the old wharf area. And oh yes, we had a game of mini golf (on a course with water hazards and sand traps) and we will not talk about who won...Sue...no...Eric...no!!! We are going to The College of Piping and Celtic Performing Arts of Canada to see a show tonight, The Highland Storm. We are staying at the Mulberry Motel in Summerside, in a motel because the campgrounds were outside of town and we have tickets to the dance show and would have had to 'ride in the dark', not a good option!!!

Daily Distance = 23.55 km. Time on the bikes = 1 hour 38 minutes. Average Speed = 14.32 km. Maximum Speed = 37.44 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gulls, Piping Plovers.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Leaving Province #7 Behind....

Wednesday, August 11

Shediac to Borden-Carleton, Prince Edward Island

Packed up our wet tents and on the road by 8:20. Just does not seem to matter how much practice we have, 'some of us just cannot get 'our' acts together in the morning. (And which two do you think I might be referring to...Sue...Eric...or maybe both)???

Our ride today was supposed to be an easy short ride to the bridge to PEI. Some things do not go as planned. Our 50km ride turned into 65 due to a road closure! Our forecast for light winds turned into a 'very strong' headwind for the last 20 km approach to the bridge.

We were shuttled across the bridge (bicycles are not allowed on the Confederation Bridge) and dropped off at the 'brand new' Gateway Village and PEI's 'huge' visitor centre. We watched a video on the building of the bridge, a 'brag fest' about a 'mega project' finished 'on time' and 'on budget'. Funny how they failed to brag about what that cost actually was!

We are staying at the Carleton Motel, 2 km from the bridge and are planning our extended 'holiday within a holiday' on PEI.

New Brunswick...a province of many 'surprises'. First and foremost how 'French' this province is. We had to keep reminding ourselves that we were not in Quebec. The area we rode through has French as its dominant language. Secondly, (and connected to the first) how many 'Acadian Flags' that were flying. The third thing would have to be the vast areas of 'nothingness' that we cycled through. Also, how hard hit New Brunswick has been by 'plant closures' mostly due to the collapse of the lumber industry. Cycling in the province is OK. The roads have some shoulders but are inconsistent. Goodbye New Brunswick (Province # 7) and hello Prince Edward Island. Daily Distance = 65.80 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 2 minutes. Average Speed = 16.31 km. Maximum Speed = 40.02 km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Herons, Osprey, Black Backed Gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Life really is good!!

Tuesday, August 10

Bouctouche to Shediac

After our full continental breakfast we were on the road by 8:20. The sun shone while we meandered our way along the Atlantic Shoreline. The ride was leisurely and flat and actually scenic, unlike the last 2 days. We had great views of the ocean and lots of 'big' houses to look at. Over the last few days we have also crossed 'numerous' bridges of many styles. Today's ride took us over a wooden structure with a wooden deck covered by asphalt (and in really bad shape). We were wondering how old some of these structures actually are?

As we rode along we came to the town of Shediac, a bustling town with 'way too many tourists' and thus 'way too many cars'! Our intended destination was Parlee Beach Provincial Park, but due to New Brunswick's 'lack' of road signage, we somehow missed it and were forced into 'Plan B'. Plan B is a 'private campground', Ocean View, located 'on the ocean' and I mean 'on the ocean'! Our tents are set up only a few metres from the water. (Well a little further now since the tide is going out)! We are hoping that the weather forecast for tonight is not accurate.

Daily Distance = 59.16 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 37 minutes. Average Speed = 16.32 km. Maximum Speed = 38.53 km. Wildlife Sightings = Willet, Osprey, Great Blue Heron, Marsh Hawk, Kingfisher.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

You know "Life really is Good"!!!

Meteorologist 100%...Eric 0%....

Monday, August 9

Miramichi to Bouctouche

Woke up to a dark sky so we quickly packed up our tents before the rain. And sure enough before we finished it was raining. We took 'refuge' in the laundry room to finish our breakfast and final pack. On the road by 8:20 with our raingear on.

Today's ride took us through a whole lot more of 'nothingness' along Hwy 11. Turning onto Hwy 134 took us past Kouchibouguac National Park and then through the town of Richibucto. In Richibucto we stopped to watch lobster traps being loaded onto lobster boats. It appears that the lobster fishery plays a huge roll in this area.

Meteorologist 100%...Eric 0%...that is how the weather prediction score went for today. Rain was predicted and rain we got! By times it was rather heavy particularly the last couple of hours. And did I mention the headwind! Now to the 'Eric prediction'. He maintained that the sun would shine by 4:00. Boy was he wrong! Maybe the sun was shining in Australia!!!

We are keeping our record intact. One night camping, one night in a motel! We are staying at the Auberge Bouctouche Inn. It is quite a nice motel overlooking the town and the Irving Nature Interpretive Centre. We have done to this room what we are really good at doing...make it a mess! It is still absolutely pouring outside!

Daily Distance = 81.22 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 7 minutes. Average Speed = 15.90 km. Maximum Speed = 34.81 km. Wildlife Sightings = Caspian Terns, Cedar Waxwing.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Head Winds...Hills...Nothing But Trees....

Sunday, August 8

Bathurst to Miramichi

When we woke this morning the temperature was a 'brisk' 6 degrees. I thought this was summer! On the road by 8:00 after a 'full' continental breakfast at our motel. An easy ride through the city of Bathurst as it was Sunday morning and no-one was on the streets. Great for cyclists! As we left the city we soon realized that 'Mother Nature' was not on our side. The predicted 10 km wind from the southwest soon became a 'full blown headwind'. We do not know how strong but 'suffice it to say' it was 'considerably' stronger than 10 km. As we continued across the Acadian Peninsula it became quite clear that the day was going to be even tougher as the hills began to appear. Once on Hwy 8 we were challenged by a series of climbs one of which was 2.5 km long. (And do not forget the headwind)!!! And the scenery was truly non-existent. If you like pavement and scrubby trees this is the road for you!

We are staying at Camping Miramichi, 10 km south of the city. It is a nice little campground with very friendly owners and fellow campers.

Daily Distance = 96.32 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 42 minutes. Average Speed = 14.36 km. Maximum Speed = 42.90 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Squirrel, Bluebird, Black Duck, Merlins, Mud tracks of Moose on the highway...Eric and Sue!

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

A Short Ride...

Saturday, August 7

Pointe-Verte to Bathurst

Everyone got to sleep in this morning (at least the other 2 did)! We let our tents and tarp dry today before we got on the road. We had made a decision last night that we were not interested in trying for Miramichi today as it would have called for another long day and I think there might have been a 'revolt of the troops'. Besides we needed to replenish many of our supplies. So we did not leave until 10:00, the latest departure of our adventure!

We are staying at the Comfort Inn in Bathurst getting ourselves ready for our push through New Brunswick. Camping was not an option because the campground would have meant a 10 to 15 km ride out of our way that would have had to be repeated tomorrow morning. Not an option!!!

The Province of Québec...14 days of riding and most of it enjoyable. We traveled through some of the best looking farmland and largest Dairy Operations we have ever seen. The St. Lawrence River probably cannot be matched for its vastness. At times we were able to see ocean going ships carrying their vast loads. And what can you say about 'historic' Québec City, a city that everyone should visit if at all possible. Last but not least, I would be remiss in not talking about 'cycling' in Quebec. This is a province that has put a lot of emphasis and 'resources' into the promotion of cycling. Even more impressive is that far more people actually cycle here than any other province. It was a fun province to go through. And as for the 'language thing', Eric certainly helped us out but it is really astounding to me that Québecers can speak English and yet in Ontario we make 'no effort' to learn our other official language. Just does not seem right!!!

Daily Distance = 32.03 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours. Average Speed = 16:00 km. Maximum Speed = 51.93 km. Wildlife Sightings = Merlins, Ospreys.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. Today represented the beginning of our 4th month on the road!!!

Welcome to New Brunswick....

Friday, August 6

Matapédia to Pointe-Verte, New Brunswick

On the road by 7:55. Five minutes later it was 9:00. That is how long it took us to ride out of Quebec and into New Brunswick and another time zone. So we are now in our 7th province!

Today's ride took us through the last of the Appalachian Mountains as we continued to catch glimpses of the Gaspé Peninsula across Chaleur Bay part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. As we rode through Dalhousie we were treated to one of the steepest climbs of our entire trip, a 13% grade, that even our 'young legged friend' found difficult.

We rode along Hwy 134, the coastal highway, and enjoyed our views of the beginning of the Atlantic Ocean. We kept catching glimpses of this huge smoke stack 'spewing' god only knows what, out of it. It turned out to be a power plant located at Belledune. We suspect it is a 'coal fired' plant. Belledune is also the home of a massive zinc smelter that is either shut down for repairs or is being 'dismantled', we could not decide which. Not much activity and nothing coming from it's 'smoke stacks'. That's okay as there really was enough 'nasty stuff' coming out of the power plant to go around!!!

We are camping at Pointe-Verte in the Cedar Cove Campground. Once again we lucked out in today's ride as the forecast was for afternoon rains which did not materialize until we had just set up our tents and 'our trusty tarp' over the picnic table. (I know Neil, now I am praising the stupid thing!!!)

Daily Distance = 109.16 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 55 minutes. Average Speed = 18.42 km. Maximum Speed = 64.36 km. Wildlife Sightings = Merlins, Ruby Throated Hummingbirds.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Riding In The Mountains...East Coast Style....

Thursday, August 5

Val-Brillant to Matapédia

Two thunderstorms and two trains during the night guaranteed a lot of 'awake' time, at least for some of us. Eric never heard a thing! Oh to be 'oblivious' to your surroundings!

Our 'soaked' gear packed away and on the road by 8:25. Today's ride took us up, the key word being 'up', into the Appalachian Mountains. We thought yesterday's ride was challenging, well today was tougher. The hills were much more gradual but coupled with heavy traffic, the lack of shoulders at times, and the 32 degrees temperatures, today was difficult. The scenery reminded us of BC as we followed the Matapédia River as it meandered its way through the mountains. All the times we have travelled to the east coast we never once realized that this route was a possibility. All of those vacationers taking the Trans Canada down into New Brunswick are missing a 'real treat', the Gaspé Peninsula.

We are staying at the Motel Restigouche in Matapédia, the only accommodation in the area. And guess what runs right beside the motel??? The train!!! We are only a 'stones throw' from entering the 7th province of our adventure.

Daily Distance = 94.28 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 16 minutes. Average Speed = 17.89 km. Maximum Speed = 52.92 km. Wildlife Sightings = Not much we were too hot and miserable to pay attention to anything!

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Goodbye St. Lawrence....

Wednesday, August 4

Rimouski to Val-Brillant

Woke this morning to the sound of a thunderstorm and heavy rain. Good thing we were in a motel even if our room was the size of a 'glorified closet'! By the time we were packed and ready to go the rain had stopped but the sky remained quite 'ugly'

Rimouski represents the end of the St. Lawrence River and the beginning of the Gulf of St. Lawrence...so 'in theory' we really have made it to the Atlantic Ocean! As we pedaled along today we were treated to the sighting of seals, another indication we have made it to the ocean. At Sainte-Flavie we had to say goodbye to the St. Lawrence and turn inland to cross the Gaspé Peninsula and therefore across the Appalachian Mountains. Yes, from Sainte-Flavie for about the next 35 km we were faced with some climbing, one of which was 8%. Mont-Joli did not get it's name for nothing!

As we 'climbed' and 'weaved' our way across the Gaspé we saw farm fields up the side of tremendous hills. As Eric said..."You would want 4 wheel drive tractors with duals on them to work in those fields".

We are camping at Val-Brillant at Camping Bois Et Berges. We have a very 'treed' site that we have been able to set a tarp up over the picnic table as the sky was extremely 'black' as we arrived. So far we have dodged the rain. Let's hope it remains so!!!

Daily Distance = 83.37 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 59 minutes. Average Speed = 16.72 km. Maximum Speed = 57.21 km. Wildlife Sightings = Seals, Black Ducks, Cedar Waxwings.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Le Site Historique Maritime de la Point-au-Père....

Tuesday, August 3

West side of Rimouski to the East side of Rimouski

Awoke this morning to the rumble of thunder. We scrambled to get our gear and tents packed up. As we were taking the tents down we were chased to a picnic shelter beside our campsite by heavy rain. Luck was with us as we were able to finish packing, have breakfast, and wait out the rain. On the road by 8:55. Five kilometers later we stopped for our second breakfast, and I mean a full one. An amazing plateful of food was consumed, particularly by Eric and myself. This not having to worry about how much we eat sure is great!!!

We rode along the waterfront of Rimouski on a dedicated bike path. Owen Sound, you sure could learn something about cleaning up your waterfront! By 11:30 we were booking into a motel on the east side of Rimouski. No nothing was wrong, at least nothing abnormal! We had decided yesterday to visit Le Site Historique Maritime de la Point-au-Père. This is the site of Canada's only submarine that has been turned into a museum. The 'Onondaga' was a Canadian Naval Submarine decommissioned in 2000 and brought to Rimouski to sit on shore as a museum. We were able to go through the submarine, a really neat experience. We were also able to go to the top of a 108 foot lighthouse with 128 steps. As well, we watched a film about the sinking of the Empress of Ireland, a Canadian Pacific luxury liner that sank 2 years after the Titanic killing over 1000 people. I guess the Titanic disaster did not teach the luxury liner business very much!

We are staying in the Motel Au Soleil Couchant on the east side of Rimouski. (And yes I have not mentioned that Rimouski is where Sidney Crosby played his junior hockey)!

Daily Distance = 20.04 km. Time on the bikes = 1 hour 17 minutes. Average Speed = 15.39 km. Maximum Speed = 39.29 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gulls, Black Ducks, Loon.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Over 100 km...And We Worked For Every One....

Monday, August 2

Riviere-Du-Loup to Rimouski

Last night we were treated to a great sunset over the St. Lawrence as our room backed onto the river. It also provided a panoramic view of the ferry docking below. Again really tough to take!

On the road today by 7:55. The forecast was for a sunny blue sky with a moderate south west wind. The sunny blue sky worked out but boy were they 'out to lunch' about the wind. We struggled into a north east wind all day. You know meteorologists have to be the only people in the world who can be wrong 50% of the time and keep their jobs. (Well I guess they are on par with 'economists' and 'financial planners')!!! We worked hard today...not one pedal stroke was easy. (Well maybe the downhill where I almost hit 60 km)! The flat riding we have become used to in Quebec abandoned us today to hills some of which were downright 'difficult'. We also only had brief sightings of the St. Lawrence as the road stayed inland behind hills. (I guess those were the ones we were 'playing in' today)!

We have our tents set up in the Camping Motel De L'Anse just east of Rimouski. Sure hope it does not rain as we are on a site shaped like a bowl!!!

Daily Distance = 105.65 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 11 minutes. Average Speed = 17.07 km. Maximum Speed = 58.26 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Fox, Black Backed Gull, Chipping Sparrow, White Throated Sparrow.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Where The River Meets The Ocean...We Think?

Sunday, August 1

St. Jean-Port-Joli to Riviere-Du-Loup

This morning we left our campsite at 7:45. The hill up from the river was a two person push of our bikes, it was that steep. So we were on the road by 8:00! Today’s ride was another amazing one. We were treated to a beautiful blue sun filled sky. Getting really used to this. Hope we do not pay for it!!!

Today's ride took us past some of the most amazing Dairy Operations we have ever seen. Some of the barns were probably up to a 1000 feet long. Even more impressive is how clean they look. No old steel thrown along the side of the buildings like we see in Ontario all the time. Buildings kept well painted and one operation actually had small trees along their barns trimmed up like hedges. Quite impressive! It appears that the Quebec Dairy Producers are doing okay!

Where the river meets the Ocean...we think? It has become very obvious that the river is now under the influence of the Atlantic Ocean. The tides have become very obvious as the water levels at our campground last night definitely changed before our eyes. Yeh! We are at the Ocean...not!!!

We are staying at the Motel "Au Vieux Fanal" in Riviere-Du-Loup. (Sound familiar Cindy)? The long weekend has come back to haunt us again as the 2 campgrounds were both full. We could have had a piece of grass without a picnic table. So we chose a motel. I guess we are now really 'fair weather campers'!

Daily Distance = 96.45 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 29 minutes. Average Speed = 17.58 km. Maximum Speed = 50.97 km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Heron, Goldfinch.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Cyclists By The Dozen....

Saturday, July 31

Beaumont to St.-Jean-Port-Joli

On the road by 7:55...a miracle!!! The sun shone today and you know I really am getting used to saying that. It beats the heck out of the first half of our adventure. Today's ride seemed like it should be an easy one but for some of us, especially me, it was anything but. It was just one of those days when every peddle stroke was a major effort. Small grades seemed like major climbs, the 'butt' was uncomfortable, the cracks on the shoulder seemed like six inch canyons, and to add 'insult to injury' I was stung by a bee on the back of the neck. Quite a day! On the other hand the scenery once again made up for all the lousy stuff. Dairy farms lined the river and again corn fields and soybean fields dominated the landscape. The St Lawrence gave us many amazing views today including ski hills on the north side. Eric was a little disappointed at the lack of Cargo Ships.

We are staying at the Camping de La Demi-Lieue 4 km east of St.-Jean-Port-Joli. Our campsite is on the banks of the St. Lawrence but on the side of a hill making the setting up of the 2 tents a 'bit' challenging. I suspect the whole day is going to made worth while by the sunset we are going to be treated to over the river.

Daily Distance = 87.63 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 8 minutes. Average Speed = 17.04 km. Maximum Speed = 41.41 km. Wildlife Sightings = Cormorants, Chipping Sparrows.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. It continues to amaze us at how many people are out cycling in Quebec. Ontario people could learn something from the Quebecois about being active!

Hitting 6000 In Style....

Friday, July 30

On the road by 8:30 today to a cloudy sky despite the forecast of sun. Jerome entertained us last night and continued it again this morning while packing up our gear. The ride into Quebec City was made much easier as all we had to do was follow Jerome. His knowledge of the city made it an easy ride to the train station. We then said goodbye to him as he was heading up into the upper city to stay in a hostel. Sue and I were familiar enough with the lower city to easily navigate ourselves around.

Hitting 6000 km for our trip was made extra special because it happened in Old Quebec City as we rode along the waterfront and looked up at The Chateau Frontenac. A one night stay in the Chateau Frontenac ranges from $549 to $2500. Who in the heck stays in these places and what do people do for a living that stay here? Insane!!! We then rode 4 km along the river bank on a bike path and watched ships being loaded. We then walked our bikes through the cobblestone streets of the lower city and had a lunch at a patio-cafe. We then had a quick ride to the ferry dock for our crossing to Levis. A short crossing and then onto a beautiful bike path for our ride out of Levis. The trail followed the old rail line and therefore avoided the major climb away from the river.

We are staying in the Camping Motel Parc Beaumont, a small motel with a huge RV campground behind it. Friday night of the long weekend and as we found, accommodation was hard to come by.

Daily Distance = 57.36 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 50 minutes. Average Speed = 14.92 km. Maximum Speed = 48.92 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Ducks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.