Kootenay Lake... a hidden gem...no backseat to Lake Louise....

Wednesday, May 19

Crawford Bay to Creston

On the road by 7:10 with rain gear at the ready. Last nights storm did not materialize. Today's ride took us from Kootenay Bay all the way the full length of Lake Kootenay. Lake Kootenay is a real hidden gem. The views today were as magnificent as anything that Lake Louise could offer with less people! It is a tourist area but a very 'sleepy' one. On our right all day was the blue waters of Lake Kootenay with snow capped mountains in the background stretching to the waters edge. Really not describable and photos will never do it justice!

As for riding today it was actually a harder day than we might have expected. It was a winding road with a series of short but steep hills that we continued to face. You were either in 'Granny' or not pedaling at all. We stopped for a late breakfast in Boswell and were treated to a history of the area. It was a fruit growing area until the 1950's when the road came to the area. That spelled the end of apple production. Why? Well, the apples and other fruits used to go to market in Nelson by boat. When the road came through the boats quit running and the roads were so rough that the tender fruit could not make it to market without being crushed. Now isn't that progress!!!

We then stopped for an ice cream at the Sidar General Store, in business since 1913, and some of the stuff was circa 1913. We had our ears talked off by the owner. We then took the lower Wynndel Road to Creston so we could avoid some climbing. As a result, we biked through a hay growing area on reclaimed land at the south end of Lake Kootenay.

We are comfortably set up in a small campground in the middle of an orchard, the Kozy Campground and RV Park in Erikson.

Daily distance=82.84 km. Trip time=6 hours 1 minute. Average speed=13.78 km/hr. Maximum speed=55.56 km/hr. Wildlife sightings=osprey, deer, painted turtles.

Kevin = 2 Sue = 2 stumbles.

Reward for yesterday....

Tuesday, May 18

Castlegar to Crawford Bay

On the road by 8:10. Today was a really nice ride, a reward for yesterday's tough day. From Castlegar to Nelson we followed the Kootenay River with its numerous power dams and huge lumber mills. (Eat your heart out Hallmans...they actually have yards filled with logs)! If there was any negative at all it was that we rode "off and on" in a light rain so we had our first test of our "raingear". Seemed to work! After a buffet lunch in Nelson, the perfect meal for touring cyclists, we started to follow the West Arm of Kootenay Lake. This area is absolutely beautiful. It reminded us of the shoreline north of Owen Sound. (The cottage sprawl was unfortunately just the same). The riding was a little more challenging with some short steep climbs. We just missed the 2:50 ferry crossing of Kootenay Lake so had a 35 minute crossing at 4:30. And imagine it was free!

Our plan was to get to Crawford Bay but we were met with a rather rude surprise after the ferry dock in Kootenay Bay, a 3 km "push of our bikes". We are again in a motel tonight, the Crawford Bay Inn. This seems to be a habit lately. A really bad storm, similar to the one last night, is forecast for the area with the possibility of 80 km winds. I guess it pays to be a "fairweather camper".

Daily Distance = 86.99 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 9 minutes. Average Speed = 14.15 km. Maximum Speed = 52.92 km. Wildlife Sightings = numerous ospreys sitting on their nests.

Kevin = 2 Sue = 0.

Oh where are you Ben, Joel, Hoss, Little Joe & Hopsing????

Monday, May 17

Christina Lake to Castlegar

On the road by 7:00 am and starting to climb. Today was a real test of our "willpower". 36.3 km of climbing. Not that bad until about km # 28 when we came to Paulson Bridge and then the climbing really began. Maybe I should say the "pushing of the bikes". For the next 6 km we pushed. A continuous 8% grade and we were already fatigued. One definitely has too much time to think when walking that far. I kept wondering where are Ben, Joel, Hoss, Little Joe and even Hopsing? (And maybe we could even throw in Candy)! Bonanza Pass was somewhere. And then we came upon "Paulson Summit" (elevation 1535 metres). Bonanza Pass was nowhere to be found just like the Bonanza characters! I guess it is "Bonanza Pass" and "Paulson Summit". Downhill to Castlegar from there!

We are again staying in a motel, The Flamingo. Castlegar is a small city so campgrounds are located outside of town and it appears all roads lead "up" out of here. We needed groceries so downtown was more to our liking. We have a room with a kitchenette so a gourmet dinner is in order.

Today was really difficult! But you know again very rewarding!!!

Daily Distance = 77.08 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 49 minutes. Average Speed = (first 36 km = 7 km) overall = 11.43 km. Maximum Speed = 44.10 km. Wildlife Sightings = deer, osprey

Kevin = 2 Sue = 0.

Getting Ourselves Ready....For Another Big Climb....

Sunday, May 16

Grand Forks to Christina Lake

Got up to the unfortunate sound of raindrops on the tent so we decided to skip our "campsite coffee and porridge" for a big breakfast special at the Grand Forks Hotel.

Today was all about the "set-up for tomorrow". Christina Lake is the kickoff for another major climb. 1000 metres over 30 km so we decided a very short day was in order. We had a very liesurely ride along the Grandby River with the knowledge that today was a short ride. By 11:30 we were in Christina Lake. Christina Lake is a resort area with numerous motels and RV Park/Campgrounds. We are presently sitting in a laundromat as I do the blog. (Sure would be easier if clothes did not get stinky). We are going to stay in a motel tonight so we can get a very early start tomorrow. Seems that from a campground we are slower at packing up and departing. Tomorrow will be a 80 km "long hard day" with our destination Castlegar.

We met a couple today from London, Ontario (not bikers). She spent summers at the Klondike Campground outside of Grand Bend. Small world!!! We are staying at the Lakeview Motel. Nice little place with picnic tables and BBQ's for our use. We are watching game #1 of Philadelphia vs. Montreal. What happened there???

Daily Distance = 29.39 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 1 minute. Average Speed = 14.55 km. Maximum Speed = 42.15 km. Wildlife Sightings = deer in downtown Grand Forks and again along the Granby River, Western Kingbird and Bullock's Oriole a few days ago in Osoyoos, Lark Sparrows.

Kevin = 2 Sue = 0

BC Riding Diet: One summit per day....

Saturday, May 15

Kettle River RV Park to Grand Falls

On the road by 8:10 am after a really nice stay at the Kettle River RV Park in the "yurt". The people there really made us feel at home. Thanks! Today started off with a nice ride through a valley accompanied by the Kettle River. It was nice to not have to stop every 15 km to pump up my tire as I changed the tube last night. We stopped in Greenwood for lunch at the Golden Eagle Bakery. (Highly recommend the cinamon buns with cream cheese). From Greenwood for the next 15 km, we climbed to Eholt Summit (elevation 1028 metres or 3341 feet for those "metrically challenged). The climbing probably was not that bad as the grades were managable but yesterday's "serious" climbing left our legs a little bit tired. To complicate matters we faced a moderate wind from the north-east today. (What ever happened to the prevailing westerlies?). After reaching Eholt Summit I made the offhand comment about how nice it would be to be able to "coast" the next 18 km to Grand Forks. And sure enough the next 15 km were covered without even a peddle stroke nor any braking required. I kid you not the wind kept our speed at a reasonable 35 km. What a pleasure!

We are presently camping at the Grand Forks Municipal Campground. Not that nice but the washrooms are really clean with free showers. Two nights in a row! I will leave the "rant" about the showers in campgrounds for another day!!!

Daily Distance = 69.49 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 5 minutes. Average Speed = 13.68 km. Maximum Speed = 43.29 km. Trip flats = Kevin = 1.

Kevin = 2 Sue = 0.

Persistence....Single Digit....

Friday, May 14

Osoyoos to Kettle River RV Park

On the road by 7:10 am. To our destination by 4:45 pm. A long hard day! "Persistence" truly was the order of the day. A 30.5 km climb with one section of 8 km at 8% grade truly tested our stamina and determination. With a combination of riding and pushing our bikes (mostly riding), we conquered "Antichrist", oops I mean Anarchist Mountain. (Even though the first term is probably a more accurate description. What is with these names anyway? Sunday Summit???). The climb consisted of a series of switchbacks as we climbed up out of Osoyoos. At 30.5 km we reached Anarchist Summit (elevation 1233 metres). Our average speed was "single digit" for this part of the ride. Once again the views were fantastic as we rode through more cattle country. Thank goodness the next 35 km was primarily downhill. (That does come with a price probably with more climbing in the near future).

We are camping at the Kettle River RV Park 8 km past Rock Creek. We are in a "Yurt" and are able to sleep in a real bed tonight for the cost of a campsite! We learned a valuable lesson today in that we should pay more attention to our own information and go with our plan. In Rock Creek some locals gave us a "bumb stear" that cost us an extra 8 km of riding. Just what we needed to finish an already long day!!!

We met up with another cross-Canada cyclist today, Doug a retired school superintendant, who had also just climbed Anarchist Mountain. He is on a Burnaby to Istanbull solo bike ride by way of Halifax. Not your conventional route! He said that he had been hearing about us for the past few days. This really is a "small fraternity".

Today's ride was another confidence booster just like the climb in Manning Park was a few days ago. We are actually beginning to think we "might" actually be able to do this.

Daily Distance = 69.44 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 30 minutes. Average speed = 10.88 km. Maximum Speed = 51.93 km. Wildlife Sightings = rattlesnake (alive in campground last night).

Kevin = 2 Sue = 0

A liesurely day off....

Thursday, May 13

NK'MIP Campground

We enjoyed a restful day today. Managed to do the obligatory things like buying groceries and doing some laundry. Took my bike to "Double O Bikes" and left it for the day. Unfortunately the bike shop was 5 km from our campsite so I walked back to the campground and later walked back to pick it up. Just what I needed on a day off, a 10 km hike!!! The bike shop said that the "pothole" I hit (yes BC has them just like Ontario) a few days ago knocked the back wheel out of whack. It is now all "trued up" and ready to "climb".

The day off was good for us "physically" but maybe not "mentally" as the campsite has a perfect view of Anarchist's switch backs. Oh well, tomorrow we face it bright and early!!!

Sue's Daily distance = 25.38 km. Kevin's distance on the bike = 10.91 km. Kevin's hiking distance = 10 km. Time on the bikes (Sue's) = 2 hours 21 minutes (Kevin's) = 50 minutes. Average Speed (Kevin) = 12.99 km. Maximum Speed = 28.86 km. Daily High Temperature = 28 degrees.

Kevin = 1 1/2. Sue = 1/2.

Up one side and down the other....

Wednesday, May 12

Keremeos to Osoyoos

On the road by 7:55 am for 5 minutes! We decided to have breakfast in Keremeos (highly recommend The Ranch Restaurant) because of a very strong wind that blew all night and this morning. Keeping a stove lit would have been impossible! On the road for real at 8:45. A Wiarton like hill met us as we climbed out of Keremeos.

The story of the day was "up one side and down the other". A series of sharp hills plagued us all day making for some challenging climbs. Again we were following the Similkameen River with it's incredible views as we traveled through cattle country. Yesterday we waited for cattle to be herded across Hwy 3 by a horse and rider and a Border Collie. Today we saw bulls being herded by a cowboy. (I guess quads have not found there way into BC ranching yet). The River then turned south and since we did not bring our passports we had to leave it behind.

A 7 km climb to Richter Pass (elevation 682 metres which did not even warrant a sign so we could celebrate) was at grades that we could actually ride all-be-it with frequent stops. Then came the 8 km drop into the resort town of Osoyoos at the southern end of the Okanogan Valley where we are camped. The NK'MIP RV Park and Campground will be our home for 2 nights with its hotub and incredible views of Lake Osoyoos. No you did not read that wrong. We have decided to give our legs a rest for a day before we tackle the Anarchist Mountain climb, the climb that is etched in our brains from our trip through here in 2008. 27 kilometer climb with the first 10 to 14 km (depending on who you talk to) a series of switchbacks. I am also going to see if I can have my back wheel looked at by the local bike shop as I have a spoke that continues to come loose.

Met a guy today at the Osoyoos Information place who was riding a fold up bike that was pulling a trailer. The trailer is actually a suitcase that the bike fits into. It just looked like an old time hard sided suitcase. He was heading off into the US and in August for a bike tour in France.

Daily Distance = 65.78 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 49 minutes. Average Speed = 13.63 km. Maximum Speed = 57.73 km. Wildlife Sightings = rattlesnake (dead on the road), California quail

Following the Similkameen River....

Tuesday, May 11.

On the road by 8:00 am. Had a fantastic ride today. It is hard to believe that you can ride for almost 70 km downhill! Suspect we will pay for that! The Similkameen River was our companion for the whole day today. The views were stunning, from grazing land, to mountain views, to spectacular river views. British Columbia is truly magnificent. Sure can tell by my attitude that today was a beautiful ride. (And we never pushed our bikes once!!!). We arrived in Keremeos, the "fruit stand capital of Canada", by 3:00 pm and are camping at the Eagle RV Park and Campground next door to some sheep. Keremeos is in a desert. Yes we have a desert in Canada! If irrigation is not used nothing grows. Unfortunately we are in the off-season so all the fruit stands are closed. We are set up to ride to Osoyoos tomorrow with another mountain pass to cross. Oh well, two days in a row of easy riding probably was a little bit optimistic.

Update on the 4 person tandem bike. We heard today that they are on Hwy 3 at least one day ahead of us and gaining. We were told that yesterday when they went through Keremeos they were "hurting". They have to be in Calgary by May 20. Good luck! Their blog can be found at www.tandemtour.com (I think)!

Daily Distance = 74.51 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 18 minutes. Average Speed = 17.26 km. Maximum Speed = 56.19 km. Wildlife Sitings = deer, bald eagle, osprey.

Kevin = 1 Sue = 0

More down than up....

Monday , May 10.

Coldspring Campground to Princeton

We woke this morning to a brisk -1 C. I guess that is why the snow was still sitting beside our tent and the campground was not yet open for the year! Packed up and on the downhill road by 8:45. Five minutes later we came to Manning Park Lodge (We did not know that we were that close!) and stopped for.our 2nd breakfast. If nothing else by 10:00 we were well fueled. Today's ride was more downhill than up. 23 km of mostly downhill riding put us in a good frame of mind only to be challenged by some 8% and 9% grades for 2 to 3 km at a time. Crested Sunday Summit (elevation 1282 metres and therfore just a baby hill...a whole 59 metres less than yesterdays).and started into some nerve wracking downhill slopes at 7 to 9% with very poor shoulder and road conditions. By the time you had gone down 3 or 4 km your hands were numb from braking. We were forced to keep the speed around 30 km. We have decided to treat ourselves tonight and are staying at the Princeton Motel and are currently sitting in a laundromat as I am sure anyone in contact with us would say it was badly needed.

Update on the guy we came upon with the broken rack yesterday. My conclusion was probably right. We passed him (yes he had obviously passed us at some time) and he was carrying 3 clear garbage bags full of empty cans on his handle bars. I suspect he collects them for the deposit money!!!

Daily Distance = 72.31 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 7 minutes. Average Speed = 14.09 km. Maximum Speed = 52.92 km

Kevin = 1 Sue = 0