Head Winds...Hills...Nothing But Trees....

Sunday, August 8

Bathurst to Miramichi

When we woke this morning the temperature was a 'brisk' 6 degrees. I thought this was summer! On the road by 8:00 after a 'full' continental breakfast at our motel. An easy ride through the city of Bathurst as it was Sunday morning and no-one was on the streets. Great for cyclists! As we left the city we soon realized that 'Mother Nature' was not on our side. The predicted 10 km wind from the southwest soon became a 'full blown headwind'. We do not know how strong but 'suffice it to say' it was 'considerably' stronger than 10 km. As we continued across the Acadian Peninsula it became quite clear that the day was going to be even tougher as the hills began to appear. Once on Hwy 8 we were challenged by a series of climbs one of which was 2.5 km long. (And do not forget the headwind)!!! And the scenery was truly non-existent. If you like pavement and scrubby trees this is the road for you!

We are staying at Camping Miramichi, 10 km south of the city. It is a nice little campground with very friendly owners and fellow campers.

Daily Distance = 96.32 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 42 minutes. Average Speed = 14.36 km. Maximum Speed = 42.90 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Squirrel, Bluebird, Black Duck, Merlins, Mud tracks of Moose on the highway...Eric and Sue!

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

A Short Ride...

Saturday, August 7

Pointe-Verte to Bathurst

Everyone got to sleep in this morning (at least the other 2 did)! We let our tents and tarp dry today before we got on the road. We had made a decision last night that we were not interested in trying for Miramichi today as it would have called for another long day and I think there might have been a 'revolt of the troops'. Besides we needed to replenish many of our supplies. So we did not leave until 10:00, the latest departure of our adventure!

We are staying at the Comfort Inn in Bathurst getting ourselves ready for our push through New Brunswick. Camping was not an option because the campground would have meant a 10 to 15 km ride out of our way that would have had to be repeated tomorrow morning. Not an option!!!

The Province of Québec...14 days of riding and most of it enjoyable. We traveled through some of the best looking farmland and largest Dairy Operations we have ever seen. The St. Lawrence River probably cannot be matched for its vastness. At times we were able to see ocean going ships carrying their vast loads. And what can you say about 'historic' Québec City, a city that everyone should visit if at all possible. Last but not least, I would be remiss in not talking about 'cycling' in Quebec. This is a province that has put a lot of emphasis and 'resources' into the promotion of cycling. Even more impressive is that far more people actually cycle here than any other province. It was a fun province to go through. And as for the 'language thing', Eric certainly helped us out but it is really astounding to me that Québecers can speak English and yet in Ontario we make 'no effort' to learn our other official language. Just does not seem right!!!

Daily Distance = 32.03 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours. Average Speed = 16:00 km. Maximum Speed = 51.93 km. Wildlife Sightings = Merlins, Ospreys.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. Today represented the beginning of our 4th month on the road!!!

Welcome to New Brunswick....

Friday, August 6

Matapédia to Pointe-Verte, New Brunswick

On the road by 7:55. Five minutes later it was 9:00. That is how long it took us to ride out of Quebec and into New Brunswick and another time zone. So we are now in our 7th province!

Today's ride took us through the last of the Appalachian Mountains as we continued to catch glimpses of the Gaspé Peninsula across Chaleur Bay part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. As we rode through Dalhousie we were treated to one of the steepest climbs of our entire trip, a 13% grade, that even our 'young legged friend' found difficult.

We rode along Hwy 134, the coastal highway, and enjoyed our views of the beginning of the Atlantic Ocean. We kept catching glimpses of this huge smoke stack 'spewing' god only knows what, out of it. It turned out to be a power plant located at Belledune. We suspect it is a 'coal fired' plant. Belledune is also the home of a massive zinc smelter that is either shut down for repairs or is being 'dismantled', we could not decide which. Not much activity and nothing coming from it's 'smoke stacks'. That's okay as there really was enough 'nasty stuff' coming out of the power plant to go around!!!

We are camping at Pointe-Verte in the Cedar Cove Campground. Once again we lucked out in today's ride as the forecast was for afternoon rains which did not materialize until we had just set up our tents and 'our trusty tarp' over the picnic table. (I know Neil, now I am praising the stupid thing!!!)

Daily Distance = 109.16 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 55 minutes. Average Speed = 18.42 km. Maximum Speed = 64.36 km. Wildlife Sightings = Merlins, Ruby Throated Hummingbirds.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Riding In The Mountains...East Coast Style....

Thursday, August 5

Val-Brillant to Matapédia

Two thunderstorms and two trains during the night guaranteed a lot of 'awake' time, at least for some of us. Eric never heard a thing! Oh to be 'oblivious' to your surroundings!

Our 'soaked' gear packed away and on the road by 8:25. Today's ride took us up, the key word being 'up', into the Appalachian Mountains. We thought yesterday's ride was challenging, well today was tougher. The hills were much more gradual but coupled with heavy traffic, the lack of shoulders at times, and the 32 degrees temperatures, today was difficult. The scenery reminded us of BC as we followed the Matapédia River as it meandered its way through the mountains. All the times we have travelled to the east coast we never once realized that this route was a possibility. All of those vacationers taking the Trans Canada down into New Brunswick are missing a 'real treat', the Gaspé Peninsula.

We are staying at the Motel Restigouche in Matapédia, the only accommodation in the area. And guess what runs right beside the motel??? The train!!! We are only a 'stones throw' from entering the 7th province of our adventure.

Daily Distance = 94.28 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 16 minutes. Average Speed = 17.89 km. Maximum Speed = 52.92 km. Wildlife Sightings = Not much we were too hot and miserable to pay attention to anything!

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Goodbye St. Lawrence....

Wednesday, August 4

Rimouski to Val-Brillant

Woke this morning to the sound of a thunderstorm and heavy rain. Good thing we were in a motel even if our room was the size of a 'glorified closet'! By the time we were packed and ready to go the rain had stopped but the sky remained quite 'ugly'

Rimouski represents the end of the St. Lawrence River and the beginning of the Gulf of St. Lawrence...so 'in theory' we really have made it to the Atlantic Ocean! As we pedaled along today we were treated to the sighting of seals, another indication we have made it to the ocean. At Sainte-Flavie we had to say goodbye to the St. Lawrence and turn inland to cross the Gaspé Peninsula and therefore across the Appalachian Mountains. Yes, from Sainte-Flavie for about the next 35 km we were faced with some climbing, one of which was 8%. Mont-Joli did not get it's name for nothing!

As we 'climbed' and 'weaved' our way across the Gaspé we saw farm fields up the side of tremendous hills. As Eric said..."You would want 4 wheel drive tractors with duals on them to work in those fields".

We are camping at Val-Brillant at Camping Bois Et Berges. We have a very 'treed' site that we have been able to set a tarp up over the picnic table as the sky was extremely 'black' as we arrived. So far we have dodged the rain. Let's hope it remains so!!!

Daily Distance = 83.37 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 59 minutes. Average Speed = 16.72 km. Maximum Speed = 57.21 km. Wildlife Sightings = Seals, Black Ducks, Cedar Waxwings.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Le Site Historique Maritime de la Point-au-Père....

Tuesday, August 3

West side of Rimouski to the East side of Rimouski

Awoke this morning to the rumble of thunder. We scrambled to get our gear and tents packed up. As we were taking the tents down we were chased to a picnic shelter beside our campsite by heavy rain. Luck was with us as we were able to finish packing, have breakfast, and wait out the rain. On the road by 8:55. Five kilometers later we stopped for our second breakfast, and I mean a full one. An amazing plateful of food was consumed, particularly by Eric and myself. This not having to worry about how much we eat sure is great!!!

We rode along the waterfront of Rimouski on a dedicated bike path. Owen Sound, you sure could learn something about cleaning up your waterfront! By 11:30 we were booking into a motel on the east side of Rimouski. No nothing was wrong, at least nothing abnormal! We had decided yesterday to visit Le Site Historique Maritime de la Point-au-Père. This is the site of Canada's only submarine that has been turned into a museum. The 'Onondaga' was a Canadian Naval Submarine decommissioned in 2000 and brought to Rimouski to sit on shore as a museum. We were able to go through the submarine, a really neat experience. We were also able to go to the top of a 108 foot lighthouse with 128 steps. As well, we watched a film about the sinking of the Empress of Ireland, a Canadian Pacific luxury liner that sank 2 years after the Titanic killing over 1000 people. I guess the Titanic disaster did not teach the luxury liner business very much!

We are staying in the Motel Au Soleil Couchant on the east side of Rimouski. (And yes I have not mentioned that Rimouski is where Sidney Crosby played his junior hockey)!

Daily Distance = 20.04 km. Time on the bikes = 1 hour 17 minutes. Average Speed = 15.39 km. Maximum Speed = 39.29 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gulls, Black Ducks, Loon.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Over 100 km...And We Worked For Every One....

Monday, August 2

Riviere-Du-Loup to Rimouski

Last night we were treated to a great sunset over the St. Lawrence as our room backed onto the river. It also provided a panoramic view of the ferry docking below. Again really tough to take!

On the road today by 7:55. The forecast was for a sunny blue sky with a moderate south west wind. The sunny blue sky worked out but boy were they 'out to lunch' about the wind. We struggled into a north east wind all day. You know meteorologists have to be the only people in the world who can be wrong 50% of the time and keep their jobs. (Well I guess they are on par with 'economists' and 'financial planners')!!! We worked hard today...not one pedal stroke was easy. (Well maybe the downhill where I almost hit 60 km)! The flat riding we have become used to in Quebec abandoned us today to hills some of which were downright 'difficult'. We also only had brief sightings of the St. Lawrence as the road stayed inland behind hills. (I guess those were the ones we were 'playing in' today)!

We have our tents set up in the Camping Motel De L'Anse just east of Rimouski. Sure hope it does not rain as we are on a site shaped like a bowl!!!

Daily Distance = 105.65 km. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 11 minutes. Average Speed = 17.07 km. Maximum Speed = 58.26 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Fox, Black Backed Gull, Chipping Sparrow, White Throated Sparrow.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Where The River Meets The Ocean...We Think?

Sunday, August 1

St. Jean-Port-Joli to Riviere-Du-Loup

This morning we left our campsite at 7:45. The hill up from the river was a two person push of our bikes, it was that steep. So we were on the road by 8:00! Today’s ride was another amazing one. We were treated to a beautiful blue sun filled sky. Getting really used to this. Hope we do not pay for it!!!

Today's ride took us past some of the most amazing Dairy Operations we have ever seen. Some of the barns were probably up to a 1000 feet long. Even more impressive is how clean they look. No old steel thrown along the side of the buildings like we see in Ontario all the time. Buildings kept well painted and one operation actually had small trees along their barns trimmed up like hedges. Quite impressive! It appears that the Quebec Dairy Producers are doing okay!

Where the river meets the Ocean...we think? It has become very obvious that the river is now under the influence of the Atlantic Ocean. The tides have become very obvious as the water levels at our campground last night definitely changed before our eyes. Yeh! We are at the Ocean...not!!!

We are staying at the Motel "Au Vieux Fanal" in Riviere-Du-Loup. (Sound familiar Cindy)? The long weekend has come back to haunt us again as the 2 campgrounds were both full. We could have had a piece of grass without a picnic table. So we chose a motel. I guess we are now really 'fair weather campers'!

Daily Distance = 96.45 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 29 minutes. Average Speed = 17.58 km. Maximum Speed = 50.97 km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Heron, Goldfinch.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Cyclists By The Dozen....

Saturday, July 31

Beaumont to St.-Jean-Port-Joli

On the road by 7:55...a miracle!!! The sun shone today and you know I really am getting used to saying that. It beats the heck out of the first half of our adventure. Today's ride seemed like it should be an easy one but for some of us, especially me, it was anything but. It was just one of those days when every peddle stroke was a major effort. Small grades seemed like major climbs, the 'butt' was uncomfortable, the cracks on the shoulder seemed like six inch canyons, and to add 'insult to injury' I was stung by a bee on the back of the neck. Quite a day! On the other hand the scenery once again made up for all the lousy stuff. Dairy farms lined the river and again corn fields and soybean fields dominated the landscape. The St Lawrence gave us many amazing views today including ski hills on the north side. Eric was a little disappointed at the lack of Cargo Ships.

We are staying at the Camping de La Demi-Lieue 4 km east of St.-Jean-Port-Joli. Our campsite is on the banks of the St. Lawrence but on the side of a hill making the setting up of the 2 tents a 'bit' challenging. I suspect the whole day is going to made worth while by the sunset we are going to be treated to over the river.

Daily Distance = 87.63 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 8 minutes. Average Speed = 17.04 km. Maximum Speed = 41.41 km. Wildlife Sightings = Cormorants, Chipping Sparrows.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

P.S. It continues to amaze us at how many people are out cycling in Quebec. Ontario people could learn something from the Quebecois about being active!

Hitting 6000 In Style....

Friday, July 30

On the road by 8:30 today to a cloudy sky despite the forecast of sun. Jerome entertained us last night and continued it again this morning while packing up our gear. The ride into Quebec City was made much easier as all we had to do was follow Jerome. His knowledge of the city made it an easy ride to the train station. We then said goodbye to him as he was heading up into the upper city to stay in a hostel. Sue and I were familiar enough with the lower city to easily navigate ourselves around.

Hitting 6000 km for our trip was made extra special because it happened in Old Quebec City as we rode along the waterfront and looked up at The Chateau Frontenac. A one night stay in the Chateau Frontenac ranges from $549 to $2500. Who in the heck stays in these places and what do people do for a living that stay here? Insane!!! We then rode 4 km along the river bank on a bike path and watched ships being loaded. We then walked our bikes through the cobblestone streets of the lower city and had a lunch at a patio-cafe. We then had a quick ride to the ferry dock for our crossing to Levis. A short crossing and then onto a beautiful bike path for our ride out of Levis. The trail followed the old rail line and therefore avoided the major climb away from the river.

We are staying in the Camping Motel Parc Beaumont, a small motel with a huge RV campground behind it. Friday night of the long weekend and as we found, accommodation was hard to come by.

Daily Distance = 57.36 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 50 minutes. Average Speed = 14.92 km. Maximum Speed = 48.92 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Ducks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.