Touring Cyclists....

Tuesday, June 29

Rossport Campground to Neys Provincial Park

On the road by 8:10 with raingear at the ready and a couple of layers of clothing on as the temperature started off at a cool 4 degrees. We packed our tent up wet this morning as the 'clear overnight' forecast was wrong again! The ride was quite a nice one today, at least as far as the scenery goes. This ride along Hwy 17 rivals BC in its picturesque beauty. Panoramic views of Lake Superior and its numerous islands are simply incredible. And now for the climbing...oh yeh, there were a few hills to climb today! The ride was quite challenging. Again we found out why other 'tour cyclists' tell you that Northern Ontario's hills are as difficult as the mountains in BC. I think it must be because they just keep 'coming at you'. Today's ride seemed like it was 50% climbing!

Today we saw more 'touring cyclists' than all the rest of the trip put together. In Schreiber this morning we talked to two young women recently graduated from the University of PEI. They were riding home to Victoria from Charlottetown. Yes they were going the 'wrong way'. While having lunch in Terrace Bay, we had a long chat with a cyclist on his way from his home in New York State to Alaska by way of a Canadian crossing. Yes he is also 'going the wrong way'. Last summer he did a 'cross the US tour'. And by the way, we talked to him for a way too long and lunch turned into a 2 hour adventure which we paid for as the day dragged into a long one. While riding we were overtaken by three cyclists (now this is embarrassing) who slowed to chat with us. The embarrassing part is that they were 70, 70, and 71 years old and the 71 year old had just recently been diagnosed with ALS. They were riding as a fund raiser so had a motor home for support. The last we saw of them they were pulling away from us in one of the many major climbs of the day. These guys were from Oakville and Vaughan and were going 'the right way' across Canada.

Daily Distance = 90.21 km of tough climbing. Time on the bikes = 6 hours 15 minutes. Average Speed = 14.45 km. Maximum Speed = 60. 48 km. Wildlife Sightings = Loon, Red Breasted Merganzers, Red Squirrel, Pet chipmunk at the campsite.

Kevin = 3 Sue = 0

P.S. We only had a brief shower during our ride today!!!

Hills...Ontario Style....

Monday, June 28

Nipigon to Rainbow Falls Provincial Park, Rossport Campground

On the road by 7:15 with and overcast sky and rain gear at the ready. Ontario showed us 'her hills' today. A steep climb out of Nipigon and then 2 more major climbs of 4 km and 2 km respectively, made today's ride challenging at times. These grades are as steep as anything that BC's mountains can throw at you just shorter. Breathtaking views of Lake Superior made this ride well worth the effort. The highway was decent with reasonable shoulders and the traffic after Hwy 17 split from Hwy 11 was much lighter, particularly the truck traffic. It was a great day for a ride as the temperature never made it above 13 or 14 and the sun shone off and on with the exception of the brief rainfall later in the day. Yes it is hard to imagine but we had some rain again today!

We are camping in Rainbow Falls Provincial Park (Rossport Campground) on the shores of Lake Superior. Our site is about 50 feet from the water and protected from the strong winds. Really 'not' very hard to take.

Today on our ride we went around the northern most point of Lake Superior, Kama Bay. As well, while having lunch/breakfast at the Gravel River Motel (in the middle of nowhere), we talked to fellow 'Cross Canada Cyclists' who were crossing 'east to west' from St Johns Newfoundland to Vancouver. One of them has been cycling for 8 months and had a Chile licence plate hanging from his bike so we assume he had been touring in South America before embarking on his cross Canada trip May 10.

Daily Distance = 80.53 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 31 minutes. Average Speed = 14.96 km. Maximum Speed = 64. 94 km. Wildlife Sightings = Chipmunks, Red Breasted Merganser, Common Merganser.

Kevin = 3 Sue = 0.

P.S. Days like today with the 'beautiful' ride, 'friendly' people, and an 'amazing' campsite are what this trip is all about!!!

Thank Goodness For Small Miracles....

Sunday, June 27

Dorion to Nipigon

Three things took place today to justify the title. Firstly, we were able to have our breakfast, pack our tent, and pack our gear before the skies opened up and turned today into a very wet adventure. Secondly, today was a scheduled short day. Thirdly, the town of Nipigon has an 'over abundance' of Motel rooms so we are drying out...again!!!

To describe today's ride as 'soggy' would be an understatement. About 10 minutes into our ride the predicted rain caught up to us and was relentless. And to make it more unpleasant, it hit a high of only 10 degrees today! For the most part the shoulder was rideable and then one of the things we are beginning to fear took place. Eleven km of road construction. Today's construction threw a new twist at us. The highway had been 'ground down' removing the top layer of asphalt, and leaving a 'grooved surface', at least that is what the sign called it, that vibrated every bone in our bodies. I have some other 'names' that I would call this road, but I will refrain from using them! Add the heavy rain to this and lots of trucks spraying us and we are 'drowned rats'.

We are staying at the Northland Motel on the Hwy 11/17 strip. A 'walk in the rain' showed us that Nipigon is a town that has had its 'better days'. It was originally a Hudson Bay Trading Post based on the Nipigon River and then thrived through the Steamboat era. When the railway came to town the community turned from the river to the rail line. Today, Nipigon is based on the highway above the town. Main street is almost empty and the 'glory days' of the railway are gone. There is still a rail line but it is just for freight and does not stop. We suspect that the economy is based on tourism as 'brook trout fishing' is advertised everywhere.

Daily Distance = 38.93 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 53 minutes. Average Speed = 13.19 km. Maximum Speed = 33.92 km. Wildlife Sightings = Finally a 'Moose' in Northern Ontario.

Kevin=3 Sue = 0.

P.S. A correction to another day's ramblings...Highway 11 will not be our 'constant companion' as I originally stated. After Nipigon Hwy 11 goes north. We will be continuing on Hwy 17.

A Moving Tribute To A Canadian Hero....

Saturday, June 26

Thunder Bay to Dorion

After taking advantage of our hotel's Continental Breakfast, we were on the road by 8:00. 10 km to get back to the Trans Canada and a short ride to the Terry Fox Memorial. Everyone should try to see and experience the tribute to Terry Fox outside of Thunder Bay. A statue has been erected on top of a hill overlooking Lake Superior. The view from the hill is spectacular. The statue itself, 'a likeness' of Terry Fox, is itself impressive. But when you consider what he did, half running, half hopping 26 miles a day for 141 straight days getting half way across Canada to raise money and awareness for the need to help find a cure for cancer, it is quite moving. His legacy, of course, lives on. There is an 'air' about the place that is impossible to describe. For Sue and I it had special meaning as both of our 'fathers' were taken by cancer.

While at the memorial we met 5 Americans on motorcycles who are doing the circle tour around the Great Lakes. They were fascinated by what we were up to. They go on a motorcycle ride every year. A dentist, a lawyer, a psychologist, a carpenter, and a minister all from Minnesota. We also came upon 2 separate touring cyclists today who were heading 'west', one lady and one man. We knew that we should start seeing the ones going 'the wrong way across Canada' somewhere in Northern Ontario!

The ride had its good moments today but was overshadowed once again by an 8.5 km stretch of the Trans Canada that was even in worse condition than the section West of Thunder Bay. This highway needed to be rebuilt 20 years ago. We had nowhere to ride except on the highway because the shoulder had loose gravel. The traffic was also heavy and for the most part were good about trying to accommodate us. However, we were forced to take evasive action when 3 cattle trucks who were not meeting anything, chose I guess to try to scare us. Way too close for comfort and I was really hoping that they would have been stopped at the truckstop up the highway so I could have had a 'chat' with the 'MORONS'!!! It was totally uncalled for what they did. They probably thought it was funny but it 'un-nerved' us to say the least.

We are camping in The Wolf River Campground somewhere around Dorion. I am not sure that Dorion actually exists other than as a sign.

Daily Distance = 81.25 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 4 minutes. Average Speed = 15.96 km. Maximum Speed = 46.24 km. Wildlife Sightings = Deer, Blue Winged Teal, Sapsucker.

Kevin = 3 Sue = 0.

A Day To Rest....

Friday June 25

We took today to rest. It was kind of nice to again take the time to enjoy our leisurely coffee with no deadline to meet. We took the time to do laundry, visit 'The Rollin' Thunder Bicycle Shop' for a great chat with the employees about cycling Canada and of course to buy another tube for our bikes and had a long leisurely lunch in a nice Italian Restaurant in the 'Old Prince Arthur Downtown'. We did this 'on foot' truly taking the day off of the bikes. We spent a good part of the afternoon in a 'planning session' getting ready for our 15 year old nephew, Eric, and Sue's brother Neil to join us. Eric is going to ride for his summer holidays with us and Neil will ride for 4 or 5 days with us. The planning is complicated by the fact that they will be arriving over the July 1st weekend and we are planning on camping in Provincial Parks so reservations have just been made. Now Sue and I have to get ourselves to the rendezvous on the proper day. No small task I am sure!!!

Daily Distance = 0 km.

And the Sun Shone....

Thursday, June 24

Shabaqua to Thunder Bay

A late start this morning as the time change got us. So we were not on the road until 9:00 and at 9:05 we stopped for a second coffee and a muffin. Now that is progress! The good news today was that the sun shone all day even though we had our raingear out. (It was really soggy and needed to dry out)!

We had a leisurely ride to Kakabeka Falls where we spent some time photographing one of the most impressive falls we have ever visited. And let me tell you being married to Sue we have visited a few!!!

After leaving the Falls the ride was dominated for 15 km by a bad highway. This section of Hwy 11 + 17 (The Trans Canada) was by far the worst section of highway that we have been on. It made some of Manitoba's messes look good. Upon entering Thunder Bay we became re-acquainted with 'city drivers' and their inability to share the road. I would just like to switch places with some of them and see how they would enjoy being squeezed to the curb! Especially the gravel truck driver who tried to graze us in the edge of the city!

We are staying in the Travelodge in Thunder Bay. We are taking tomorrow as a rest day because we found our legs a little bit 'unresponsive' today when hill climbing. Gee I wonder if that had anything to do with the distance yesterday! Besides we have a lot of chores to take care of tomorrow.

Our motel backs onto a beautiful old baseball park and low and behold there happened to be a ball game going on so we went and enjoyed a Northern League (minor pro) game between the hometown Thunder Bay Border Cats and the St. Cloud Riverbats. St. Cloud is in Minnesota. These are former college players, mostly from the US, whose careers are going 'nowhere in a hurry' but they are still 'chasing their dream'!!!

Daily Distance = 74.77 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 18 minutes. Average Speed = 17.33 km. Maximum Speed = 50.97 km. Wildlife Sightings = Chipmunk, Red squirrel.

Kevin = 3 Sue = 0.

Us and The Road....

Wednesday, June 23

Atikokan to Shabaqua

On the road by 7:00 as planned. Once again we had our raingear ready due to the overcast conditions but we rode the first 50 km rain free. (More later). Atikokan is now an 'outfitters town' being the jumping off place for wilderness canoe trips in Quetico Provincial Park. I guess that is why Atikokan calls itself the 'Canoe Capital of Canada'. After Quetico Park the weather deteriorated to say the least! Heavy rains accompanied us for the next 2 hours. With absolutely no towns, or for that matter any habitation, it was just 'us and the road'.

As we passed the 100 km mark for the day we began to realize that this is a depressed area. Abandoned businesses and falling down houses became the norm. Business signs still exist to tell you what services are available but when you would get to them they were boarded up and usually for sale. It probably has a lot to do with the lack of traffic that goes through this section of Hwy 11.

Now for the rest of our ride... We were forced to push our limits today. We had more climbing today than any other day since leaving Kenora but all rideable. The lack of services forced us into a very long ride, over 140 km. That by the way is a new best for us!

We are tenting tonight in the yard of a place that rents cabins in Shabaqua. When we went to the office a note told us to call a # and the owner told us to go ahead and set up that they would not be back until tomorrow at noon. Trusting individuals! Since setting up we have experienced a heavy rainfall and a thunderstorm. Imagine that, another day of rain!!!

Daily Distance = 143.83 km. Time on the bikes = 8 hours 27 minutes. Average Speed = 16.98 km. Maximum Speed = 49.61 km. Wildlife Sightings = Loon, Kingfisher, Pileated Woodpecker, Fox, Red Squirrel, Black Bear.

Kevin = 3 Sue = 0.

P.S. Today we entered the Eastern Time Zone and also passed the point where all streams flow towards the Atlantic Ocean. Bet that does not mean it is all down hill from here!!!

Highway #11....

Tuesday, June 22

Mine Centre to Atikokan

After fixing a flat tire on Sue's bike this morning we were on the road by 8:15. Funny how a tire can go flat sitting against a tree. I guess we did not go entirely unscathed by our 'road construction' after all! A heavy cloud cover stayed with us for the entire ride today but thankfully only produced an early mist. The road was again narrow and winding but with even less traffic than yesterday. There were definitely more hills to climb today (3 Bayview Hills) but nothing that 'Granny' could not handle. For the entire day we never saw a town! Sightseeing consisted of the road, rock outcroppings, construction flag people, (We had a scare as we came upon a sign that said 22.7 km of road improvements...but the equipment was just being moved into the area to begin the project...good thing!) and lots of beaver ponds.

Highway 11 is the longest highway in Ontario running from Rainy River in the northwest to downtown Toronto (Younge Street). It will be our 'constant' until we turn towards Manitoulin Island at Espanola.

We are staying in the Quetico Inn in Atikokan. Our decision was based on 2 factors. Firstly, the threatening sky, which by the way opened up and dumped an unbelievable amount of rain while we were inside and dry. Secondly, we have a long ride tomorrow again through a 'serviceless area', so we hope to get an early start.

Atikokan...an old mining town. Iron Ore was discovered here in the 1930's. Two mines were developed and by 1970 more iron ore was mined than would have been used in every car built in Canada up until 1970. However, with a technological change in iron ore mining, the mines became uneconomical and both mines closed in 1980!

Daily Distance = 86.52 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 22 minutes. Average Speed = 16.08 km. Maximum Speed = 47.90 km. Wildlife Sightings = Deer, Cedar Waxwings, Phoebe, Great Blue Heron, Chipping Sparrow, Grouse.

Kevin = 3 Sue = 0.

Trees, Rocks, Water and Road Construction....

Monday, June 21

Fort Frances to Mine Centre

Left Fort Frances this morning by 8:00 with rain gear on. The day started warm and overcast but the predicted rainfall overnight never materialized. Thank goodness for small miracles. The road took us over a series of bridges and causeways out of town. The first 45 km was a good ride. Up and down and around we went with just us and the 'pulp trucks'. We counted 25 for the morning transporting logs to the Abitibi Bowater plant in Fort Frances. A nasty surprise awaited us after 45 km. Construction!!! The next 21.5 km was on loose, rough, washboardy gravel. Now for those who do not understand how bad this is for 'touring cyclists' let me explain. Our bicycles carrying 60 to 70 pounds of gear are not built to withstand the bumps so every bump shakes you to the core. Our small tires do not work well in loose gravel. To make matters worse we are also 'clipped' to our pedals, another thing not good in loose gravel. So to put it mildly we struggled for the 21.5 km. But we made it without mishap!

We are staying in the Mine Centre Resort. Now before anyone jumps to any conclusions let me explain that this is 'not' a 'luxury' place. We are in a small cabin hidden in the trees hanging over the water. It is warm and more importantly it is dry. Good thing because about a 1/2 km from Mine Centre we got wet again and presently we are having a thunder storm.

Mine Centre...not much here. The guy that owns this cabin and so called resort also owns the local gas station, the general store, liquor outlet, sells hunting and fishing licenses, rents out a building to house the construction company headquarters (company doing the roadwork) and another building to the engineering company who oversees the construction company. Why Mine Centre exists is a mystery to us. But, but, but... We are dry and enjoying our little cabin.

Daily Distance = 67.22 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 41 minutes. Average Speed = 14.28 km. Maximum Speed = 43.29 km. Wildlife Sightings = Great Blue Heron, White Pelican, Loon, Goldfinch, White Throated Sparrow, Chipping Sparrow, Rabbit, Black Bear cub.

Kevin = 3 Sue = 0.

And then there was Agriculture....

Sunday, June 20

Caliper Lake Provincial Park to Fort Frances

On the road by 8:00 to a cloud covered sky but without our rain gear for a change. It was a beautiful day for a ride. The cloud cover kept the sun from overheating us and the wind was a non-factor. Some early climbing tested the legs but soon the long and winding road became very straight and what should appear but farmland. We had entered the Rainy River District, a pocket of agricultural land located in the western portion of Ontario. We saw mostly pasture land and hay (cattle were conspicuous by their absence....is that a sign of the times in the beef industry?), but we know more is grown as witnessed by the crop research area we passed just outside of Emo. Speaking of Emo, we would like to thank Dan and Ruth for their valuable information about the Emo area. What's with celebrating your 50th wedding anniversary rather than being at your cottage to greet us? Congratulations, it is a milestone too few couples get to enjoy!

We are camping in the Pither's Point Park in Fort Frances. It is a nice beach front park but calling their camping facilities anything but lousy would be exaggerating. An open field with really poor washrooms bordered by train tracks with trains running very regularly is not my idea of ideal camping! And then 2 OPP officers stopped to let us know that there was a '500 lb black bear' through the park this morning and to just be aware! Great! They said he just wanders through and ignores humans. Good thing! However, it does not effect the taste of the rum!!

Fort Frances is a pulp and paper town. The plant owned by AbitibiBowater, is very large stretching for half the length of the town. Part of the facility is located in International Falls across the border. I suspect this town depends upon this facility for the majority of its employment and I seem to remember not that long ago that AbitibiBowater was in financial trouble and had filed for Chapter 11 in the US.

Daily Distance=97.95 km. Time on the bikes=6 hours 1 minute. Average speed=16.23 km/hr. Maximum speed=39.69 km. Wildlife sightings= chipmunk, red squirrel, deer, red fox, white pelicans, great blue herons, pileated woodpeckers, kestrel, wood thrush, loons.

Kevin=3 Sue=0