"Sometimes, the path forward begins with a journey back"...

Monday, August 30

Barachois Pond Provincial Park to Corner Brook

Awoke to an overcast sky this morning. Good part about that is that there was no 'dew' unlike the soaked fly we had to pack away yesterday. On the bikes by 8:00. Remember that hill in the campground I talked about yesterday, well it was a 'beauty'. It took almost 20 minutes to climb the 2 km to the highway. That maybe should have been a 'warning' of what was to come. Today was all about climbing. Long gradual hills kept coming at us. It is funny how when you are riding a bicycle it seems like you climb all day and end up right back down at the Ocean. I do not understand how that can be!!! To add to our difficulties we faced a strong head wind for the last 30 km. But the sun came out and it was a beautiful day.

Last night we received an email from a fellow Cross Canada Cyclist that made us begin to think about what this adventure 'truly' means to us and how we can share 'a small piece' of it with others. It has also made us think about 'enjoying' Newfoundland and not getting caught up in the end goal, St. Johns. Thanks Brian for sharing those words with us. Our perspective has changed overnight.

Today's ride also got us thinking about the scenery of Newfoundland. "Sometimes the path forward begins with a journey back". At times today it was like we were back in BC. at the beginning of this journey. If you let your mind wander (and while climbing there is lots of time for that) you could imagine these climbs today were actually in BC. No there are no 27 km climbs to a pass but the plateau that we rode onto today made us feel like we were at the top of the world just like BC. (Even though we were 3000 metres lower than some of the passes in BC).

We are in the Comfort Inn in Corner Brook. Our room overlooks the bizarre layout of a hill town and overlooks the Ocean. All the hills and my 'tender' knee made us shorten our day.

Daily Distance = 73.28 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 12 minutes. Average Speed = 14.15 km. Maximum Speed = 65.54 km (guess it was not all uphill)! Wildlife Sightings = White Throated Sparrow, Junco, red squirrel.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

Up and Down Newfoundland's West Side....

Sunday, August 29

Crabbe River to Barachois Pond Provincial Park

The 'failure' of my internal alarm clock caused us to get off to a late start. With the temperature hovering around 6 degrees we set off at 8:20.

Today was all about climbing long gradual hills followed by just as many 'swooping' downhills. The scenery remained the same with 'peaks' in the distance and small 'stunted' trees along the sides of the road. Every once in a while we would get a view of the ocean. The sunshine and very little wind made the temperature climb to about 20 degrees but it seemed warmer. Perfect conditions for a 'leisurely' ride...well maybe not a 'leisurely' one but at least a 'nice' one.

The Trans Canada through Newfoundland has been good to cycle on. A 4 foot shoulder and almost 'no' traffic has made us 'happy bikers'. We were just getting used to that when our 'serenity' was interupted by a 'rumble' strip. Whoever put this one on must have been 'into the sauce'. It wandered all over the shoulder. The strip would be 1 foot off of the white line and 1 1/2 feet wide leaving very little for us to ride on. We are told we will deal with this off and on for all of Newfoundland. OH GOODY!!!

We are camping at Barachois Pond Provincial Park. We are in the 'day use' area because these sites are much more private and quiet. The lady at the gate told us that they "don't let 'locals' camp here" but keep it for cyclists and oversized rigs. Our site is on Barachois Pond nestled under Barachois Mountain ( a stunning rock face hill). Quite a nice little site but our climb out of here tomorrow morning (1.8 km of extreme uphill) to the highway will be a real challenge!!!

Daily Distance = 61.03 km. Time on the bikes = 3 hours 44 minutes. Average Speed = 16.33 km. Maximum Speed = 53.42 km. Wildlife Sightings = Junco, red squirrel, Moose tracks.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

"And then you find yourself seemingly in the middle of nowhere, and oddly enough, it is exactly where you want to be."

Saturday, August 28

Channel-Port Aux Basques to Crabbe River

On the road by 7:50 (did you catch that Eric?). The sun was shining despite what the weather channel said. I am beginning to put less and less faith in meteorologists! But, I will not complain this time about them being wrong!

Today was truly a 'magnificent' ride. With the sun shining and very little wind, we wound our way through the hills heading northward into Newfoundland. We had been fearing this part of our ride because we knew of the 'Wreckhouse' area of the TransCanada from our previous visit. The Wreckhouse area is famous for its winds. And I mean winds! When Newfoundland had a railway (narrow gauge track) the winds were known to 'flip' railcars in this area. So now you know why we were fearing it. At about 65 km we were either getting tired or the hills were getting steeper because the rest of the day was definitely more challenging. I suspect both were happening.

We are camping in the middle of nowhere. It is a small private campground called Crabbe River R.V. And Trailer Park. We believe it used to be a Provincial Park but it is no longer. Our site is not really a site. We are in the 'kids' playground, but oddly enough, it is exactly where we want to be, the middle of nowhere!

Daily Distance = 98.78 km. Time on the bikes = 5 hours 47 minutes. Average Speed = 17.07 km. Maximum Speed = 59.34 km.

Wildlife sightings = goldfinches, rabbit, red squirrel, chipmunk, Yellow Rumped Warbler

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0

Thank You, Eric...And Now We Are 2....

Friday, August 27

North Sydney to Port Aux Basque, Newfoundland

Up and at it this morning by the 'insane' hour of 5:00 so we could say 'goodbye' to everyone before leaving for the ferry. By 6:50 we were waiting in the 'staging lanes' with the 'big boys', some Harley Davidson riders. One asked where we had come from and when we said Vancouver his reaction was "holy shit". We boarded the ferry and are presently on our way to our 10th and final province, Newfoundland.

As we were leaving North Sydney this morning we were experiencing 'butterflies' as we both seem to be somewhat nervous about heading off again on our own. It was fun to be tourists for the past 3 days and made extra special by being able to spend some time with Cindy and Andy, Collin, Cara and Helen. Oh yes and I cannot forget 'Eric'. Thank you Eric for being such a 'big' part of 'our' adventure. I hope that 'your' adventure was memorable and that you will cherish some of the moments for years to come. We also were able to have a visit with friends from London, Teri, Ian, Alex and Meagan. It was quite a surprise for us to get your call and great to have a visit in Cape Breton of all places!

Nova Scotia...lousy drivers but a great place to visit. About the drivers...we had more 'stupid' drivers in Nova Scotia than anywhere else so far on this trip. From the early experience on a 'traffic circle' where we were 'swore at' once and 'cut off' twice to the numerous 'clowns' who passed cars while meeting us, Nova Scotia drivers 'stink'!!! Making up for the drivers, however, was the incredible scenery we experienced particularily on Cape Breton. The Cabot Trail can be matched for 'sheer beauty' by very few places that we have ever visited. Louisbourg and the Miner's Museum should be experienced by anyone who possibly can. The Baddeck area is a 'sail boaters' paradise and the home of the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, another worthwhile destination.

Our ferry ride turned out to be a lot longer than was scheduled so our arrival late in the day made us opt for 'another' motel stay. We are in the St. Christopher's Hotel in Port Aux Basques and getting ourselves mentally prepared for our push across Newfoundland.

Daily Distance = A 'Whopping' 8.60 km plus a 7 1/2 hour ferry ride. Time on the bikes = 38 minutes. Average Speed = 13.53 km. Maximum Speed = 36.75 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Ducks, Cormorants.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0.

The Miner's Museum

Thursday, August 26

We visited the Miner's Museum in Glace Bay today. In 1967, as a Centennial Project, the Miner's Association in conjunction with the Nova Scotia government built the museum as a living tribute to coal mining in the Sydney area. We were able to go into a mine and out under the ocean. The mine was as low as 4 feet at times and dripping water. The tour was led by a former coal miner who worked underground for over 30 years. He knew his stuff and told stories of many of his underground experiences. The last coal mine closed in 1999 and this area has suffered economically ever since. Anyone travelling in the area should make this a destination. It is truly worth the stop.

We are off to catch the ferry tomorrow morning to Newfoundland. Province # 9 down...here we come # 10.

Cabot Trail...Revisited....

Wednesday, August 25

Today consisted of a trip around the Cabot Trail by car. And trust me am I ever glad we did not cycle it! Between the construction, the lack of shoulders, the traffic and all the 'amazing hills', it would have been 'really tough'. A few 'road bikers' were out and we saw 2 'recumbents' struggling to climb one of the many hills. You know it is the 3rd time we have driven the Cabot Trail and we have not tired of the incredible views. The only way I would ever consider a bicycle ride around it would be 'without gear'. And we will leave that for another time...possibly...maybe with 'my next wife'!!!

Daily Distance = The Bikes Once Again Never Moved.

Fortress of Louisbourg

Tuesday , August 24

We spent today visiting the Fortress of Loiusbourg. It is a 'fascinating' re-creation of 'a day in the life of the fortress in 1744'. People in period costume explain how Louisbourg had become France's most important 'stronghold' and 'seaport'. It was based on a thriving 'cod' industry and was a fortified community. It was twice defeated by the British. The second time the fortifications were destroyed.

Louisbourg was re-created as a 'make work project' for the laid off coal miners of Cape Breton. Over a 20 year period 1\5 of the town was rebuilt on the very spots that they had stood. It truly is a special place to visit! More archeological digs continue on the rest of the site.

Daily Distance = 'The Bikes Never Moved'.

A Day of Doing Nothing...And The Crew Arrives....

Monday, August 23

North Sydney

Today was a day off to relax, do laundry (how exciting!) and some grocery shopping (how exciting!). We have a cottage rented for the next 4 nights and a car rented so we can 'truly' be tourists. A trip around the Cabot Trail, a visit to Louisbourg, and maybe a boat outing is how we plan to spend our days off.

The crew has arrived to pick up Eric so we now have a 'full' cottage.

Daily Distance = 5.75 km. Time On The Bike = 27 minutes. Average Speed = 12.52 km. Maximum Speed = 28.86 km. Wildlife Sightings = Black Backed Gull.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.

Kellys' 14 Kilometres

Sunday, August 22

Baddeck to North Sydney

On the road by 7:58 'with only one moon in the sky'. It looked like a beautiful day for a ride. A moderate temperature with sunshine, a few clouds, and some small hills greeted us. By 8:30 we had all of our rain gear on and got soaked for the first of 4 times on the day.

We climbed 7 km up Kellys Mountain at a low grade and rolled down the other side at high speeds before having to slow down for the bridge at the bottom. It was my first ever mountain and I have to applaud the 'troopers' that went through the mountain passes out west. This was just a small one and must have paled in comparison.

Tonight we are staying in The Clansman Motel just minutes from North Sydney and the Newfoundland Ferry. We have been upgraded from our motel room to the cottage on site that we will be staying in for the next 4 days to tour Cape Breton "BY CAR".

Daily Distance = 61.98 km. Time on the bikes = 4 hours 9 minutes 35 seconds. Average Speed = 14.90 km. Maximum Speed = 54.47 km. Wildlife Sightings = Bald Eagle, Black Backed Gull, Goldfinch, Cormorants.

A special Thanks to Sue and Kevin for allowing me to be part of their wonderful adventure.

Written by Eric

History and Big Puddles....

Saturday, August 21

Baddeck

Today we were able to take our time and enjoy '2' coffees, something we have rarely been able to do. After riding into Baddeck we enjoyed a second breakfast. My this journey is a tough one!

We enjoyed a 'history lesson' today as we visited the Alexander Graham Bell Museum. We knew of his work to invent the telephone but we were unaware of all the other things that he worked on in his life...genetic study of sheep, airplane development, hydrofoil development, phonograph development, work in teaching the deaf, x-ray development. You know his life was made a lot easier when he married 'Mable' a former deaf student of his who to say the least was 'loaded'. Combined with his 'fortune from the Bell Telephone Company, life got a lot easier. He built a castle in Baddeck that later in life became the headquarters for his airplane and hydrofoil experimentation. The other thing that became apparent was that he 'hired' and 'housed' experts to develop his ideas. He was an 'ideas guy' and had the money to hire expertise and a wife to manage his financial affairs.

Now for the 'big puddles' part...when we began to ride back to our campground it began to rain and I do not mean a light rain. It absolutely poured. Our tents handled the rain OK but you know they did not handle the 'big puddle' of water that they were sitting in. The result was we were forced to move to a motel in Baddeck, The Cabot Trail Motel, so we could begin to dry our sleeping pads, sleeping bags, etc. We have the humidity level in the room 'through the roof' to say the least. And we are not even bothering to try to dry our tents. THE ADVENTURE CONTINUES!!!

Daily Distance = 32.90 km. Time on the bikes = 2 hours 30 minutes. Average Speed = 13.12 km. Maximum Speed = 42.52 km. Wildlife Sightings = Red Squirrel, Grey cheeked Thrush, Chipmunk.

Kevin = 3, Sue = 0, Eric = 1.